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Mike Yardley: Bites and sights in Montecito

Author
Mike Yardley ,
Publish Date
Sat, 30 May 2026, 12:52pm
Coast Village Road architecture and Montecito Inn. Photo / VisitSantaBarbara
Coast Village Road architecture and Montecito Inn. Photo / VisitSantaBarbara

Mike Yardley: Bites and sights in Montecito

Author
Mike Yardley ,
Publish Date
Sat, 30 May 2026, 12:52pm

Montecito makes for a fascinating short stay dabble, edging Santa Barbara and just a 90-minute drive from LA. Home to just over 8000 residents, Montecito is a pint-sized California enclave, but home to a horde of A-listers and a certain royal couple. Synonymous with the Duke and Duchess of Sussex in recent years, they follow a long trail of celebrities to move in. Oprah has been here for decades, while the residential roll-call of entertainment royalty includes Gwyneth Paltrow, Jennifer Aniston, Rob Lowe, Ariana Grande, and Katy Perry.  

Despite its A-list credentials, Montecito has retained its small-town vibe with understated glamour. It is calming, woodsy and charming, where soft coastal light meets mature oaks and sweeping mountain views—with glimpses of the ocean at every turn. Backed by the Santa Ynez Mountains, Montecito cascades its way down to Butterfly Beach, tucked away along ritzy Channel Drive. Its rare East-West orientation makes it one of the few places where you can catch both sunrise and sunset over the ocean. If you’re after a lazy day lounging on a drop-dead gorgeous beach, look no further. Harry reportedly heads down here regularly to take his dog for a run on the beach.  

Butterfly Beach. Photo / Jay Sinclair 

If celebrity-laden history spins your wheels, Santa Ysidro Ranch is a stirring little boutique hotel, sweetly secluded in the foothills of the Santa Ynez Mountains. This is where JFK and Jackie spent their honeymoon and where a procession of celebrities continue to head for a private getaway. Winston Churchill and Groucho Marx have appeared on the guest list. Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, book a table at Stonehouse, which was built in the 19th century as a working citrus working packing house. Montecito’s most storied dining destination sources produce from the property’s own gardens. Their Dungeness Crab Cakes are divine. 

San Ysidro Ranch from above. Photo / Supplied 

Down on Coastal Village Road, check out the grand old Montecito Inn. It was opened by Charlie Chaplin, along with a group of investors, in 1928 as an upscale getaway. He tied the knot here in 1943 to Oona O’Neill. It soon became one of the most desirable destinations along the California coast. The entire hotel is decorated with old Charlie Chaplin movie posters, beautiful orchids, and sleek leather furniture. 

A few doors down, start the day with breakfast at Jeannie’s, where the seating under those signature pink umbrellas, and the oven-fresh pastries are first come, first served. A staple for more than 35 years, this breakfast and lunch spot has become a community meeting place where locals and visitors rub elbows and revel in everything from scones to soft-scrambled eggs and steak sandwiches. Oprah is a regular customer – and Julia Childs gave it her seal of approval. In conversation with some local diners, they all remarked that Montecito doesn’t make a fuss over the celebrities living here. They’re never starstruck. And the paparazzi don’t ply their trade here. As one local remarked, “There's like an unspoken rule in Montecito. We treat them like anyone else. It's really nice."  

Jeannie's at dawn. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Come nightfall, the old school steakhouse on Coastal Village Road, Lucky’s, burst into life. Plastered with a star-studded cast of regular diners over the decades, Lucky’s is a perennial hit with convivial carnivores, swooning over prime cuts of meat and ice-cold martinis, with red carpet lavishly laid out on the sidewalk. Their seafoods and salads are succulent, too. Despite its glittery reputation, the vibe is disarmingly laid-back and unpretentious. Go for the peppercorn strip steak and a side of hash browns with Gruyère cheese. 

Montecito’s Upper Village is the heart of the community, offering a charming mix of upscale boutiques, quaint cafés, and specialty shops. Stroll along the tree-lined streets and explore unique stores that sell everything from high-end fashion to artisanal goods. The sprawling estates, guarded by giant gates, and the immaculately landscaped gardens speak to the serious wealth lurking in these parts. In Upper Village, you can find almost anything at Pierre Lafond, a sort of everything store that is a market, smoothie bar, coffee shop, deli, and restaurant in one. It has been in Montecito for nearly sixty years and remains a prime people-watching locale. As is the nearby Montecito Coffee Shop. 

Upper Village, Montecito. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Local attractions? Make your way to Lotusland, Montecito's botanical dreamscape. This lavish 37-acre estate was once home to a Polish opera singer, Madame Walska, who became a passionate horticulturist. It shows in every curated path — from rare and endangered cycads and cacti to a whimsical Japanese garden and prehistoric ferns.  

For another glimpse into Montecito’s heritage, check out Casa Del Herrero, a Spanish Colonial Revival estate designed by George Washington Smith in the 1920s. The graceful mansion is set on 11 lush acres of Moorish-inspired gardens. I also popped into Montecito’s Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church - another historical treasure from the 19th century, in old Hispanic style. Its picturesque design and serene location make it a beloved Montecito landmark. 

Our Lady of Mt Carmel Church. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Montecito’s hills are a haven for hikers. Popular hikes include the Cold Spring Trail and the Hot Springs Trail – which does include hot springs, if you fancy a dip. Both offer stunning views of the Pacific coastline and the serrated peaks of surrounding mountains. With its winning blend of pristine beaches, world-class dining, boutique shopping, outdoorsy adventures and understated elegance, this prestigious central coast enclave makes for a curious and captivating jaunt in California.  And it’s just minutes from Santa Barbara

I flew to Los Angeles with Fiji Airways who have spread their wings with an extensive international network, including multiple American destinations. From New Zealand, fly to Nadi from Auckland, Wellington or Christchurch and enjoy seamless connections to the well-timed USA services. Fly your way with Fiji Airways with a flexible range of fares and add-ons, in Economy and Business class. If you fancy some extra comfort in Economy, opt for a Bula Space seat. 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings. 

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