Tucked beneath the rugged Crown Range and richly wreathed in the charm of its gold-rush legacy, my abiding love-affair with Arrowtown is fully renewed with every visit. Long famed for its ravishing fall foliage, autumn’s full flush is still on radiant display. The annual Arrowtown Autumn Festival celebrated its 40th anniversary a fortnight ago – no mean feat when so many events and cherished festivals around the country have struggled to continue. I happened to be in town for the tail end of the festivities. This year’s cooler temps have been a boon for leaf-peepers, because the cooler, crisp nights help trees retain their colourful leaves longer, while also producing even more vibrant hues. So even though it’s now May, you can still feast on the flamboyantly coloured foliage if you hot foot it to Arrowtown in the next few weeks. The flaming colour palette moves like morning mist through the trees in the Arrow Valley: from mossy green and petal rose, to flaming copper and soft honey gold, all part of the unfolding medley. 

At the northern end of town, just by the Chinese Settlement, strike out on the 2km long Arrow Gorge Trail. The gorge is popping with colour as poplars, willows, and other exotic trees blaze gold and copper along the valley walls. The contrast with the dark schist cliffs and the olive green of native shrubs is so strikingly photogenic, especially in the soft morning or late afternoon light. The gorge is equally atmospheric in winter, when frost clings to bare branches and the river runs low and clear. The low-slung Arrow River Trail is also good for fiery autumn colours, while the legendary poplars bracketing Lake Hayes are guaranteed Insta-gold. 

Glorious Lake Hayes. Photo / Supplied 

Peckish? You’re never short of dining options in postcard-perfect Arrowtown. One of the recent additions to their impressive culinary arsenal is Swiftsure. A long-established Waiheke winery business, Man O’War, has spread its wings to Arrowtown. Man O’War’s connections with the region are strong, with the winery’s vineyard in Bannockburn exclusively dedicated to producing pinot noir. I enjoyed a glass of their delicious pinot over lunch at Swiftsure, which enjoys an elevated perch looking down at the atmospheric charm of Buckingham Street. The four-level restaurant and bar also include outdoor dining spaces with fireplaces and a ‘gin pit.’ For perfectly executed winter comfort food for lunch, I highly recommend their moreish Potato Gnocchi, accompanied with local fungi, rocket pesto and pecorino. Delightful.  

SwiftSure in Arrowtown. Photo / Supplied 

One of the real treats around Arrowtown that keeps me coming back for more is the comprehensive network of cycling trails lacing their way all over the Wakatipu Basin. East of town, the Gibbston Trail doubles as an indulgently trusty way to hop-scotch between world-beating tastings of pinot noir. But come spring, one of the most ambitious, daring cycle trails New Zealand has ever seen will finally open. Connecting the Gibbston Trail to the legendary Lake Dunstan Trail, the Kawarau Gorge Trail is going to be a next-level new addition to the network. You can already see the trail carving its way across the craggy, undulating slopes on the south bank of the Kawarau Gorge. This will be quite the jaw-dropper ride, linking Gibbston with Bannockburn. It’s seriously off-road, to the point that they’ve been helicoptering in gravel for the paths. Central Otago locals promise me that this new trail will be like Lake Dunstan on steroids – rocking the socks off the trail riding world. I can’t wait! 

Meanwhile, there’s stacks of trails to size up from Arrowtown and I’ve become a recent convert to the Wharehuanui Trail. Opened two years ago, it’s nicknamed the Ale Trail by locals because it passes by some very appealing beer stops – none more so than Canyon Brewing, with its killer riverside location in Arthur’s Point, brimming with great beers and solid food. Hugging the foothills of Coronet Peak, and connecting Arrowtown with Arthur’s Point, the 13km-long trail also traverses the beautifully restored Mill Creek Reserve and tootles by the groomed greens of Millbrook Resort.  

Wharehuanui Trail. Photo / Geoff Marks 

Speaking of Coronet Peak, it’s a very exciting year for the celebrated ski field because their multi-million-dollar Snow Factory will see Coronet Peak open earlier than ever. The season kicks off on May 29, with snow on the ground of the lower slopes even while winter is still finding its rhythm. Coronet Peak will be the first ski area in the South Island to introduce this snowmaking machine, that works no matter the temperature. Unlike traditional snow guns that require freezing temperatures to produce snow, the Snow Factory uses a closed circuit to freeze water and turn it into snow without any chemical additives. 

No matter what outdoorsy adventures you have in mind, if you’re travelling by car, the back road between Arrowtown and Queenstown, along Malaghans Road to Arthur’s Point and the Gorge Road, is such a joyful breeze. It feels like a world away from the yawning tailbacks and choking traffic that increasingly blight the approach to Frankton on SH6. It’s such a brilliantly bucolic route, too. 

Arthur’s Point is also home to Gantley’s Tavern. This historic stone building is one of Queenstown's oldest hospitality businesses and was built in 1865 as the Pack Horse Hotel. Having served in the British Army, then as a jailer in Arrowtown, Irishman Patrick Gantley bought the pub at the height of the gold rush in 1874, to provide, food, drink and lodgings. Expect good honest Otago pub grub here – and they do a cracking Sunday Roast. More local drops? The Cargo Collective Brew Hall is in a purpose-built building behind the tavern, which along with great craft beer also produces Wild Rivers gin.  

Gantley's Tavern. Photo / Supplied 

There’s another great reason to base yourself at Arthur’s Point, because it is where you’ll find Coronet Ridge Resort. Perched high above the slashing twists and turns of the Shotover River, this luxury five-star alpine resort is such a great launch-pad for forays with Arrowtown and Queenstown. Previously home to the Nugget Point Hotel, a multi-million dollar refresh has transformed the gleaming property, which only reopened four months ago as the Coronet Ridge Resort. On a chilly April day, it was so heart-warming to enter the reception to be greeted with a sublime schist fireplace in full flame. 

Featuring 41 rooms and suites, the resort fuses restrained luxury with natural alpine character. Expansively sized accommodations are clad in warm timber hues, with the creature comforts laid on thick. The artisan selection of snacks and drinks in the minibar are particularly good. My private deck featured a free-standing outdoor bath which was a spell-binding spot to savour the alpine splendour, gazing up at Sugar Loaf Peak and the serpentine curves of the Shotover River, as jet boats swing by. Drinking in the view, the rugged sense of wilderness in these parts is intoxicating.  

An outdoor bath at the Coronet Ridge Resort, overlooking at Shotover River. Photo / Mike Yardley 

All just minutes away from the throb of Queenstown. I’m sure some international guests must feel as if they’ve been teleported to the Rockies, at Coronet Ridge Resort. Those achingly gorgeous views are also on show at the resort’s headline restaurant and bar, Elevation. It’s a beautiful venue with those enormous floor-to-ceiling windows accentuating those drop-dead-gorgeous vistas (there’s also outdoors seating if you want to brave the elements). For dinner, start with spiced duck croquettes and wild alpine venison.  

For big plates, plump for the Royal Burn Lamb. I also noshed heartily here for breakfast and highly recommend their Beurre Noisette Pancakes, liberally adorned with vanilla bean whipped cream, hot fudge sauce, berry compote, banana and caramelised bacon. Sinfully good! Elevation is destined to be a hot spot this winter with the apres-ski scene. The boutique resort is generously endowed with amenities including a Roman-inspired spa, fitness centre, squash courts, private cinema and event spaces. It’s fast courted the attention of discerning leisure and business travellers. 

Breakfast at Elevation. Photo / Coronet Ridge Resort 

From sight-inducing landscapes and golden hospitality to stirring heritage and world-class trails to blaze, treat yourself to some fresh adventure in our greatest natural playground. 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.