The pint-sized Texan city of Grapevine certainly struck it lucky with the location Gods. Bounded by the sprawling immensity of Dallas-Fort Worth International Airport (DFW), its mighty aviation neighbour prevents the threat of urban sprawl swallowing up Grapevine into the metroplex. DFW, with its seven runways, encompasses a greater area of land than Manhattan Island. This plucky little city remains safeguarded in its own compact bubble, like a world apart, while offering transit passengers at DFW the chance to enjoy an indelible dabble with the delights of Grapevine. TEXRail runs trains every 30 minutes to and from the airport, which is ideal for day-trippers. But once you get here, you’ll soon realise that Grapevine deserves so much more than just killing a few hours between flights. The place is a revelation. 

At first blush, I thought I had arrived at a highly seductive tourist trap, but it’s actually the real deal – a totally authentic thriving Texan town that has proudly safeguarded and restored its irresistible main street and historic district. Walt Disney would be seriously impressed by its historic, charismatic good looks, which pulses with mixed-use vitality. It’s even got its own vintage railway.  Much of Grapevine’s “Vintage Texas” allure, which plays host to over 12 million visitors annually, can be attributed to the passionate leadership of Mayor William Tate. He has transformed his city into a premier destination, a triumph to his vision over many decades to revitalise Grapevine.  

Historic gems on Main Street. Photo / Mike Yardley 

In a remarkable milestone, Tate will celebrate being the longest serving mayor in Texas history next month, clocking up 50 years in office.  A statue will be erected in his honour, obviously in Main Street. Grapevine was founded in 1844 when Texas was its own country – the Republic of Texas, joining the Union as the State of Texas in 1846. The city's name derives from the wild mustang grapes that once grew abundantly in the area. Today, there’s actually a booming wine scene around Grapevine, which is considered as the epicentre of Texas wine culture. My first stop on Main Street was at one of the state’s oldest wineries, Messina Hof, which offers 40 different wine varieties. I enjoyed a very indulgent tasting.  

I particularly enjoyed Messina Hof Viognier, a medium-bodied white wine with soothing floral and tropical fruit notes. But as fan of red wine, my absolute favourite was their Estate Sagrantino. They planted these Umbrian vines over a decade ago and the wine has a deep ruby colour and bold tannins. Light aromas of bell peppers are complemented with jammy red fruit flavours, with hints of cinnamon and vanilla. Delish! Eight wineries, including Messina Hof, have main street Grapevine tasting rooms that form the walkable Urban Wine Trail. It’s a relaxed route which takes cellar-door hopping to a whole new level – you can taste the entire Texas wine list without needing a car. Even better, visit in September when the Main Street shuts down for GrapeFest.  

Messina Hof Winery. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Grapevine proudly sports its downtown heritage in so many ways. Murals and sculptures abound along Main Street. An old jailhouse and early log cabin offer echoes to the Old West. The iconic art-deco style Palace Theatre is abuzz with entertainment, while Main Street’s retail offerings are strikingly impressive, with art galleries, homewares, gift stores and indie boutiques all contributing to Grapevine’s distinctive spirit. But it’s the bountiful, eclectic dining scene that cast me under its spell. Short on time, I was eager to focus on some signature destinations. 

First up, Tolbert’s Restaurant & Chili Parlor. This cherished establishment is steeped in Texan dining pride, founded by Frank X. Tolbert, and home to his iconic "Bowl of Red" Chili. His recipe remains a staple of Texan cuisine. It is piping hot, but sure-fire comfort food – a gloopy stew of slow-cooked cubed beef, bursting with bold spices and plenty of red chilis. Tolbert’s is also a great place to tuck into local specialties like Donkey Tails – beef frankfurters wrapped in a tortilla with cheese and deep fried. And order up some tator tots (similar to potato croquettes), which go great with a queso dip, which is a creamy, silky melted cheese with chili powder. Beyond its culinary delights, Tolbert’s pulls a very convivial crowd, sporting a lot of Stetsons and boots, who pack out the place for the top-notch nightly live music.  

Live music at Tolbert's. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Right next door, satisfy you sweet tooth with a late-night scoop or two from Beth Marie's Old Fashioned Ice Cream. Yes, it’s open late at night! Beth Marie’s makes ice cream using a vintage machine designed a century ago, churning out ten gallons of ice cream in eighteen minutes. A scoop of Cinnamon & Oats and Peachy Cobbler, please. 

Breakfast to remember? Chez Fabien Main Street Bistro and Bakery is a starring hero. Fabien Goury opened the bakery more than 25 years ago, before adding the bistro. His almond croissants are worth the trip alone. The bistro menu is expansive, but for breakfast, I couldn’t go past his Churros French Toast, which were soaked in cinnamon cream and served with house-made Dulche de Leche. Sinfully good. 

Churros for breakfast at Chez Fabien. Photo / Mike Yardley 

For a quintessential lunch, I ventured to Meat U Anywhere for some classic Texan barbeque, where slow-smoked brisket and tender ribs are cooked over oak and hickory wood. Can’t decide what to order? The sample plate is ideal for tasting a variety of meats. I also got the chance to prepare some brisket in their special dry rub, before hoisting the huge cuts of beef into the slow-cooked wood fire, under the tutelage of owner Andy Sedino. Thankfully, I didn’t disgrace myself. 

Another headliner for the belly in Grapevine is Esparza's, the Margarita Capital of Texas, and a widely acclaimed Tex-Mex dining destination for over 40 years. Yes, their house margaritas are splendid, and they’ve sold millions of them, but it’s their Tex Mex dishes that are particularly drool-worthy. The restaurant occupies a 19th century house that has been beautifully renovated and as I gazed over the full tables in every room of the house, there’s no mistaking the happy, homely atmosphere that courses through the place. The effervescent staff (many of whom have worked here for decades) will fast make you feel like you’re part of the family. From sizzling fajitas to brisket tacos and sour cream chicken nachos, to the delicious bowls of guac freshly whipped up at your table, it is a joyful fiesta of Mexican fare, flair and flavour. Leave room for simple, but sweet dessert – sopapilla, a fresh puffed pastry dusted with sugar and cinnamon, along with strawberry sauce, honey, and whipped cream. 

Guacamole made at the table at Esparza's. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Discover the many charms of Grapevine, from the best wineries of Texas to its historic downtown experiences, world-class resorts and nearby attractions – all just minutes from Dallas Fort Worth Airport.  

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Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.