Mike Yardley: Nature’s theatre at Niagara Falls

Straddling the US-Canadian border, crowned by the Rainbow Bridge, Niagara Falls is a striking destination, dishing up a heady mix of thundering natural wonder and vibrant parklands. Yes, there’s plenty of tourist tat clustered around both sides of the border, from faded casinos and wax museums to Hershey World and the Fudge Factory, but it’s nature that really holds court here. The Niagara River, and the entire Great Lakes Basin of which it is a part, is a legacy of the last Ice Age, connecting Lake Erie with Lake Ontario. While some water is annually replenished from rainfall and snow melt, a significant proportion is “fossil water”, leftover from the melting ice sheets 10,000 years ago.  

And here’s a fun fact: every 60 seconds, enough water rushes over the falls to fill a million bathtubs. As the second largest waterfall on the planet, over two million litres of water per second tumbles over the falls. Niagara Falls are continuously eroding and moving upstream, though human intervention has slowed the process significantly. The backward eating away of the rock has shifted the falls 12km upstream from their original location, 10,000 years ago. At the current rate of erosion, the falls will disappear in 50,000 years, after eroding the rock all the way back to Lake Erie.  

Niagara Parkway on the edge of the Falls. Photo / Mike Yardley 

If you’re staying for a night or two, I strongly recommend the Canadian side, in Ontario. Nature gave Canada the wide-angle view of the majestic Horseshoe waterfall, so treat yourself to its full force, along with the spoil of nature trails. Maid of the Mist is the famous cruise operator on the American side of the river, while Niagara City Cruises services the Canadian side, not far from Rainbow Bridge. Their signature 20-minute Voyage to the Falls tour is an experiential must. Cruise past the American and Bridal Veil Falls and into the mist of the iconic Canadian Horseshoe Falls for an up-close experience of its power and beauty. Feel the thunder, hear the roar, and embrace the mist with a complimentary recyclable poncho provided, which is highly unlikely to keep you dry – expect a full-body drenching.  

Niagara City Cruises taking on the Falls. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Just steps from the brink of Horseshoe Falls, check out Table Rock Centre which brims with attractions. I was struck by a large family of Amish people, all traditionally dressed, soaking up the sights on the edge of the falls. It was one of those timeless moments of travel serendipity, while also reinforcing how Niagara lures the world, from all walks of life. Inside Table Rock centre, the immersive motion-based ride Niagara Takes Flight is a cracker. Crafted to give you a sense of what a bird would see soaring above Niagara Parks, the journey through all 56 kilometres of the Niagara River corridor feels like one epic swoop. You’ll soar over swirling rapids, glide past steep rock faces and lush forests, climaxing with intimate encounter with the might of Horseshoe Falls. 

If you didn’t get wet enough aboard a cruise, a soaking is guaranteed on the Journey Behind the Falls attraction. From Table Rock Centre, you first descend by elevator through bedrock to reach tunnels that lead to the Cataract Portal and the Great Falls Portal, set behind the massive curtain of water. The tunnels were part of the old hydro-power scheme that harnessed energy from the falls. Then you walk on to the Upper and Lower Observation Decks at the very foot of the falls, where the sheer frisson of being saturated by this spewing watery giant will make you feel like a seven-year-old again.   

Mike getting soaked at the base of the Falls. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Head for heights? Originally opened in 1962 as the first Niagara Falls Observation tower, The Tower Hotel was designed to give visitors an unmatched panoramic view of the Falls. Standing 520 feet above the Niagara Gorge, this landmark became a must-visit attraction, offering breathtaking sights of both the Horseshoe and U.S. Falls. History has now come full circle, with the structure reinstated as the Niagara Falls Tower Observatory, bringing back the experience that made this tower iconic.  

It’s a seriously lofty vantage point to witness the power and beauty of Niagara Falls. But if you want to extend that state of suspended reality, simply book a high floor in one of the “fallsview” hotels (edging the falls). I stayed at Hyatt Regency Fallsview, rising 42 storeys above the brink of the Horseshoe Falls. Designed for comfort and convenience, the hotel features spacious accommodations in various configurations – perfect for families, couples, and groups. Rooms include mini-fridges, coffee makers, premium bedding, and modern entertainment options for a relaxing retreat between adventures. On-site dining options, including STK Steakhouse Fallsview, TGI Fridays, and Starbucks. 

Hyatt Regency Fallsview. Photo / Niagara Falls Tourism

Niagara Falls illumination is a do-not-miss. Every night of the year, the three waterfalls are mood lit in various colours. Adding to the glow up, nightly fireworks paint the sky every night at 10pm between May and October, while weekend displays are staged at 8pm in November and December. Beyond the falls, don’t miss Niagara’s Great Gorge. 4km north of the falls, catch a WEGO bus to Whirlpool Bridge. The riverside walk is a half-a-kilometre-long boardwalk, constructed on the edge of one of the world's wildest stretches of whitewater. You can see first-hand its immense power and peril. This is a river with seriously beefy waves. It’s utterly engrossing.  

Nearby, take a ride on the antique Whirlpool Aero Car across the vivid, teal-coloured waters, including the swirling Niagara Whirlpool and the river’s Class 6 rapids as you soar 3,500 feet across Niagara Gorge. Due to how the river elbows, you’ll actually cross the international border four times. No need to show your passport. Save yourself some serious Canadian dollars by purchasing a Niagara Parks Pass, which bundles all the key attractions into one discounted ticket.  

Riding high above Niagara in the AeroCar. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard each week on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.