After taking in the retro charms of Route 66’s on a romp across northern Arizona, the desert was calling. I pointed the car south, driving through the achingly gorgeous Oak Creek Canyon route to Sedona, bound for Scottsdale. Towering red sandstone cliffs and an undulating quilt of ponderosa pine create a riveting scenic medley. Situated on the eastern flank of the sprawling Phoenix metroplex, Scottsdale has been dubbed “the Beverly Hills of the Southwest” and “a desert version of Miami’s South Beach.” It’s desert chic, unmistakably stylish and manicured, but it’s also stimulating, creative, and rugged. The singular beauty of the landscape is sublime, inspiring Frank Lloyd Wright to set up shop here, ninety years ago. It’s the same reason artists have been swooning over Scottsdale ever since – drawing inspiration from rugged nature and the soft light. And all of that derives from the Sonoran Desert, one of the world’s most diverse ecosystems. 

Old Town Scottsdale is the beating heart of the city and an absolute charmer. Strolling through its streets feels like stepping back in time, with historic buildings and cowboy-themed benches and decor paying homage to the area's Old West roots. It’s also a hotbed for creatives with a myriad of art galleries, showcasing everything from contemporary masterpieces to traditional Native American crafts. The Scottsdale ArtWalk, held most Thursday evenings, turns the area into an open-air art gallery, with live music and artist demonstrations.  

Stepping out in Old Town Scottsdale. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Landmarks like the Little Red Schoolhouse and the Old Adobe Mission provide a glimpse into Scottsdale's past. Built in 1933, the gorgeous Mission has been beautifully restored and reinstated as a Catholic Church. The hospo scene is buzzing and ebullient. Don't miss the chance to savour a prickly pear margarita. Mexican fare is to the fore. Expect tortillas, sauces and salsas made fresh daily, tableside guacamole presentation, and meats prepared on a plancha or a grill using pecan and mesquite wood for rich Latin flavours. 

Nestled in the foothills of the McDowell Mountains, I jaunted to Taliesin West, a masterpiece of Frank Lloyd Wright architecture. This UNESCO World Heritage Site was Wright's winter home and studio. What constantly impresses is how seamlessly the structures blend with the surrounding desert landscape, writ large with Wright's philosophy of organic architecture. Tours include the Drafting Studio, where countless groundbreaking ideas took shape, and the Garden Room, which was the Wrights' personal living room. 

Touring inside Taliesin West. Photo / Supplied 

I also headed to Scottsdale’s Contemporary Art Museum, which brims with a plethora of head-scratching works. But the standout attraction is the free installation, James Turrell's "Knight Rise," a mesmerising "skyspace" that plays with light, colour and perspective. This meditative installation encourages you to relax on the angled stone benches and gaze up through the portal at the shifting desert sky. It’s very soothing, almost surreal, transforming the sky into art! The masterpiece changes with every passing cloud and fading light. It's not just something you look at, it's something you feel! At sunrise and sunset, the illusion is most dramatic, as if the sky descends upon you like a tangible substance. 

After that rather trippy encounter, I was eager to stretch the legs. Close to my hotel, I took a stroll around the lower reaches of Camelback Mountain, serving up wide-angled views across the metroplex. But if you like a hike to include a dollop of local wildlife and breathtaking desert scenery, look no further than Pinnacle Peak Park. The granite summit rises dramatically from the Sonoran Desert, and the 3km-long over-and-back trail is moderately challenging, with an elevation gain of about 700 metres. The trail doesn't lead to the summit, but it’s dotted with rewarding vantage points along the way. Pinnacle Peak Park is also home to an array of desert creatures, including roadrunners, Chuckwalla lizards, Western diamondback rattlesnakes, and the occasional bobcat.  

Hiking Pinnacle Peak. Photo / Supplied 

Various raptors soared above me and the rocky landscape, scanning for prey. Early morning and late afternoon hikes offer cooler temperatures and the best chances to see wildlife in action. One critter I didn’t encounter is the Gila monster. Arizona’s most dangerous sounding mammal is a giant lizard – and highly venomous. Typically black with vivid orange stripes, Native Apache believed Gila monster breath was fatal. But it’s the monster’s bite that is particularly nasty. Thankfully, they are largely nocturnal and spend most of their lives underground, so you’re unlikely to strike one on a stroll in the desert.   

If you’d like your hiking to also include plenty of prickly flora, the McDowell Sonoran Preserve is a showstopper. This sprawling natural sanctuary showcases the Sonoran Desert's rugged beauty, studded with millions upon millions of iconic giant cacti, the saguaro, dominating the landscape, and soaring as high as 30 metres. There are numerous trails to choose from, but savouring a sunrise or sunset here certainly adds to the desert splendour.   

Hiking in McDowell Sonoran Preserve. Photo / Supplied 

Swaddled in immaculately groomed world-class golf courses, you’ll soon notice that many visitors flock to Scottsdale simply to chase little white and dimpled balls. Or to flop-out in a daybed, while sipping on poolside cocktails. Brimming with swanky resorts, holiday indulgence is laid on thick here. I stayed at Grand Hyatt Scottsdale Resort which flanks the truly gorgeous Gainey Ranch Gold Course. Nestled within manicured gardens with flowering cactus and backdropped by the majestic McDowell Mountains, this property delivers all the goods you’d expect from a destination resort. 

This handsome resort draws its design cue from Frank Lloyd Wright and the Sonoran Desert, offering a spirited, playful escape with nearly a dozen sparkling pools, excellent cuisine, and those compelling mountain views. In a city that enjoys 330 days of sunshine annually, the resort maximises the outdoor lifestyle, with big, movable glass walls in the lobby and on the backend of the resort, that are typically swung wide open. Visiting in March, the daily highs topped out around 33C, but because of the low-humidity desert heat, it certainly didn’t feel that hot. That being said, between June and September, when the mercury regularly goes north of 40C, it’s critical you stay hydrated and shaded. The resort draws a diverse mix of guests, from loved-up couples and families on vacation, to conference-goers mixing business with pleasure. I was there in spring training season and there were hordes of baseball fans in residence, kicking back at Grand Vista Lounge, the convivial heart of the resort. This buzzing resort has struck the sweet spot. It’s sophisticated without feeling stuffy or pretentious. Formerly a Hyatt Regency, the recent brand change to Grand Hyatt prompted a $115 million property-wide refresh. It feels brand spanking.   

The Grand Hyatt Scottsdale Resort from above. Photo / Supplied 

All of the resort’s 496 accommodations were treated to a facelift, replacing heavy wood furnishings and a dark, brown-centric colour palette, with subtle desert hues. Every guest room, features a balcony or patio, accentuating the light and airy aesthetic. Six dining venues are offered, under the helm of celebrity chef Richard Blais. His interpretation of classics from a variety of cuisines is intriguing and tasty. At signature restaurant La Zozzona (which translates to “messy delicious” in Italian) the Crispy Mozzarella, with drizzles of honey, is a revelation. The house-made pastas are particularly good. 

I also really enjoyed a dabble at Tiki Taka, showcasing an edgy dinner menu headlined by Japanese sushi and Spanish tapas. Top choices include the crispy rice topped with spicy tuna, beef and bacon-wrapped dates, and the okonomiyaki, a Japanese cabbage pancake.  Poolside H2Oasis and Sandbar serve options ranging from nachos and chicken tenders to crispy ahi tuna tacos and French fries topped with beef bulgogi. You certainly won’t go hungry. 

Beef and bacon dates at Grand Hyatt Scottsdale. Photo / Mike Yardley 

The Grand Hyatt’s craft cocktail programme is wild and creative, with theatrical bursts of smoke, fire, and liquid nitrogen. At La Zozzona, a cocktail torch puts the final touches on the Amalfi Margarita. The rum-based Shiso Fine at Tiki Taka is topped with a citrus smoke bubble and the Yuzu Delicious is delivered with a little paper cone of pistachios attached to the rim of the glass. 

The 2.5 acre pool complex beckons as a watery wonderland, with a whopping choice of 10 swimming pools, soft sand beach, and three-story waterslide.  If you’re eager for a more relaxing poolside experience, you’ll have no trouble snagging one of the many loungers alongside the adults-only pool. That was my happy place! There’s also a great spa, 24-hour fitness centre, a pair of tennis courts and eight pickleball courts. There’s no stopping the pickleball craze! And if you do fancy a round of golf, Grand Hyatt guests enjoy direct access to Gainey Ranch Golf Club. The palm trees, resort lighting and fire pits, all add to this sweetly seductive holiday oasis. The cherry on top of this glittery resort is undeniably the cheerful, attentive and outgoing staff, eager to ensure you have the best of times in their gorgeous pocket of the world. 

Poolside at the Grand Hyatt Scottsdale. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Explore the world with the trusted name in travel insurance, Cover-More Travel Insurance, which has you covered with added safeguards, over and above the typical travel cover, for the likes of medical treatment. In addition to single-trip cover, multi-trip annual cover is another great option, wherever you want to go. Check out the full range of protections and tailor the level of cover to your requirements. Cover-More’s 24 hour global assistance centre is just a phone call away.  

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and talks travel every week on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.