Beyond the bright lights, city buzz and gorgeous gardens of Hamilton, the mighty Waikato is pitch-perfect for leisurely roadies. It’s a province generously endowed with so many enticements, from Middle-earth in Matamata to wonderland underground in Waitomo. But it’s also the fact that so many of Waikato’s towns are drive-to, not drive-through destinations.

Cambridge is a starring specimen - stately, graceful and sweetly seductive. Despite its population boom, Cambridge still exudes a sense of a ‘Old English’ charm, with its magnificent canopy of aging oaks draping across the main street and rich trove of antiques and homeware shops, it’s easy to see why people linger in Cambridge to shop and nosh. Whether it’s ceramics, art, silver, gold or something a little out of the ordinary, retail therapy is a serious pursuit in these parts. My favourite store is the Heritage Trading Co.

Understandably dubbed the town of champions, its gold-medal winning Olympian residents and its illustrious heritage of thoroughbred racing are vividly celebrated. Wander along Duke St to find several dozen plaques honouring the achievements of local stars in the Sporting Walk of Fame, and as you turn into Victoria Street, you’ll marvel over the parade of mosaics set into the footpath of prominent locally-bred horses, including over a dozen Melbourne Cup champions.

Definitely spend some time trackside at the Velodrome, a world-class, purpose built wooden cycling facility. The Oceania Cycle Champs were in full cry when I took my seat in the stands. The speed of the track racers is quite staggering to see in the flesh. Fun fact about the Velodrome? If you laid the individual lengths of timber out, it would stretch for 52km. The track is formidably steep, with a maximum slope of 43.5 - but you’re welcome to give it a crack, during the Have a Go sessions, held on the middle Saturdays of each month.

Cambridge’s extensive population growth is certainly noticeable as you potter about, particularly on the town fringe where what were previously horse studs have been sold and converted into upmarket housing subdivisions. Cambridge’s population growth is double the national average. But there’s also no shortage of growth and investment in the town centre. The latest star-turn causing a lot of buzz is The Clements Hotel. Open just six months, it was previously the Masonic Hotel in its former life, lording over Duke Street since 1866. (I actually stayed there five years and it was in a very sad state!) Renamed in honour of the original owner Archibald Clements, the current owners, Gerry Westenberg and Jo Pannell have overseen a stirring restoration of the heritage landmark, revitalising many of the property’s original features like the stained-glass windows, the grand rimu staircase, high ceilings and brick walls.

The sense of boutique splendour pervades the hotel’s renaissance, steeped in time-honoured elegance, brimming with contemporary comforts and beating to a very playful soul. It is a masterclass restoration of a Beaux-arts building, reborn as a premium hotel experience with five-star service. Across all areas, the hotel staff are effervescent, attentive and personable. If you fancy a stiff, stuffy hotel stay, you have come to the wrong place. Fancy a few cocktails in the bar? The mixology is just as good as the bar staff’s theatrical tricks. Do not miss the original 150-year-old basement which has been transformed into a stirringly authentic underground speakeasy.

The evocative bar is called 1866 and this intimate space is just the spot for cosy libations and live music. Boasting 29 generously appointed guest rooms, luxurious amenities and comforts delight the senses, as does the sparkling on-site hospitality offerings. I started each morning noshing on the most divine Classic Benedict, but dinner in the on-site restaurant, The Gallery, is a runaway highlight. I highly recommend the fresh market fish, served on a bed of potato and fennel salad, ricotta and dashi sauce. The dessert menu is a treat. The Black Forest Chocolate Brulee with kirsch chantilly and poached cherries is decadently dreamy. Make a date with The Clements, the new hospitality hero in town. www.clements.co.nz

More great eats? Make tracks to Good Union, the home of Good George brewing in Cambridge. Just as Good George’s Frankton base is housed in an old church, so is the Cambridge satellite. Good George is also the brewer of Hobbiton’s Southfarthing range of beer, cider and ginger beer. Alongside their craft brews, you’ll drool over their bbq experience, where locally sourced meats are cooked “low and slow” for up to 15 hours using traditional woods. Another Cambridge favourite is Alpino, housed in the town’s original Post Office. Built in 1908, the clock tower was dramatically removed in 1934 (after the Napier earthquake sparked fears it could topple) and it now stands in Jubilee Gardens. Alpino specialises in modern Italian Cuisine, with a seriously indulgent, artful array of pizza, pasta and share plates. My picks? Cappelleti pasta prawn with gem fish, dill and prawn bisque. And for pizza with a difference, sink your teeth into a Tartufo pizza, slathered in parma ham, truffle sauce, mushroom and mozzarella. 

Matamata has long been synonymous with the movie magic of Hobbiton. Interestingly a third of all visitors have never read a Tolkien book or watched an entire movie - including myself. I loved being guided around the 44 hobbit houses strung around the hillside, before drinking a Girdley Fine Grain Amber ale at The Green Dragon Inn. The lines between movie fantasy and tangible reality are virtually indivisible at Hobbiton, as if you’ve entered a third realm. Sir Peter Jackson is renowned for his pursuit of perfectionism, but I was still blown away by just how exacting he was with everything at Hobbiton.

The fake silicon oak tree took the cake for me, dressed with two hundred thousand fake leaves. Upon completion, Jackson didn’t like the colour of the leaves, so they were all re-painted by hand, even though the tree was only in shot for 10 seconds. It’s those kind of stories that gush forth on a Hobbiton tour, enriching the experience immensely in this breathtakingly beautiful fantasyland. All movie set tours now include now include an interior Hobbit Hole experience on Bagshot Row. Crafted two years ago, these Hobbit Holes offer an authentic glimpse into the charming dwellings in the Shire.

Pleasingly, I’m quite short which made weaving through the various rooms and hallways considerably easier, because everything is purpose-crafted with a Hobbit’s stature in mind. You’ll marvel over the masterfully created well-stocked pantry and the various heirlooms and trinkets from generations of Hobbits, passed down their family line. It is all so wondrously and thoughtfully escapist, with intricate and decorative flourishes throughout. Be sure to book a time slot on a tour in advance, because Hobbiton sells out most days. No matter your fandom level, don’t miss sampling a slice of this magnificent movie-set, sprawling across the Alexander family farm.

For a complete scenery change, I jaunted south to Sanctuary Mountain Maungatautari. Looming on the horizon after passing the glistening good looks of Lake Karapiro, this wonderland of native flora and fauna struck me as quite the revelation, as I struck out on a guided tour. Sanctuary Mountain is the largest fenced ecosanctuary in New Zealand. The predator proof fencing stretches for 47km, making it one of the largest inland predator-proof sanctuaries in the world. Encompassing 3400 hectares, this protected forest and adjoining wetland is home to over 730 native species, including many of the country's endangered wildlife such as kiwi, kākāpō and tuatara. I was staggered to learn that over 3000 kiwi now call Sanctuary Mountain home. Prior to the translocation of our national bird to the sanctuary 20 years ago, a century had passed since the call of a kiwi had been heard here.

The old growth forest, studded with towering specimens spanning half a millennia, is like Swiss cheese. The forest floor is pockmarked with kiwi burrows, at every turn. I also enjoyed some close, intimate encounters with the takahē and tuatara. But within the ancient, storied forest, basking within its tranquil, soulful beauty, it is the rich and unrelenting birdsong that really stirs the spirits – particularly when you don’t have to go far back in history to know this maunga had fallen silent. Saddlebacks, kereru, tui, kaka and North Island robin flittered about in great numbers. The sanctuary is thriving and to dip into this enchanted place, this ecological marvel, tugs at the heart of every proud Kiwi.

I rocked my way around the Waikato in a trusty hybrid Toyota Rav4, courtesy of Ezi Car Rental. I thoroughly enjoyed the Ezi experience, where excellent vehicles, super sharp prices and fast & friendly service are all part of the package. Ezi Car Rental operates an extensive network from 24 branches across the country, including Hamilton Airport. They’re everywhere you want to be with vehicles to suit your specific needs. www.ezicarrental.co.nz

The magic certainly runs deep in the mighty Waikato. For more touring tips and insights, head to the region’s official visitor website. www.waikatonz.com

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.