Mike Yardley: Venturing beyond Port Vila, Vanuatu

Jetting into Vanuatu across the sapphire sea and the crisp palette of lagoon blues, all the hues of your tropical holiday dreams stretch out to greet you. After taking in the delights of Port Vila, head out of town for some rewarding encounters. For a sweet burst of soft adventure, jaunt to the Mele Cascades, about 15 minutes north of town. It is a wonderland of waterfalls. A twenty minute walk through lush and fragrant native bush leads you to the most sublime 35 metre high waterfall and gin-clear rock pools.  

As you ascend, incredibly clear water sparkles in pristine blue pools and upon reaching the top you are rewarded with beautiful tropical gardens and the amazing falls, plus sizzling views across Mele Bay and Hideaway Island. Some stretches of the walking track are steep and slippery, but if you work up a sweat, the great pay-off is a liberating dip in the pristine water. Speaking of Hideaway Island, from Mele Bay, board the ferry for the quick hop over to pint-sized island. The snorkelling here is top-notch, for abundant and colourful marine life including clownfish and blue tang. Hideaway is home to the Underwater Post Office, where you can post a waterproof postcard from this unapologetically touristy novelty.    

Hideaway Island from above. Photo / Vanuatu Tourism 

Also close to town is Jungle Zipline Vanuatu. Under the command of Aussie couple Michael and Amanda Thompson, more dizzying views across Efate’s tropical hues await. The Big Zip Trek enables you to soar through the jungle canopy on a sequence of seven ziplines, totalling 1.3km. You’ll zip across canyons and ravines, mop-topped in lush jungle, while drinking in the lofty views. Then there is the Skybridge, which you can enjoy as part of the zip trek or as a standalone experience.  

120 metres in length and over 60 metres high, it’s the longest suspension bridge in the Southern Hemisphere, with salivating 360 degree views looking down the canyon to Mele Bay and the stunning azure. I adored it. The New Zealand-engineered bridge is highly reminiscent of the Capilano Suspension Bridge, just out of Vancouver.  You can free-roam the jungle trails at your own pace to reach the Skybridge, chill out on the edge of the canyon in a fare and even enjoy the seasonal swimming hole at the base of the waterfall. 

Mike at the Skybridge. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Vanuatu loves its encircled bodies of water and an emblematic attraction is the Blue Lagoon. Located on the east coast of Efate, the lagoon water is quite cold, spring-fed from beneath the surrounding hills. Flanked with seating, huts, and rope swings, it’s a great spot to loll about on a lazy afternoon. The adjacent beach, Eton Beach, is drop-dead gorgeous if you’re after an ocean swim. 

Blue Lagoon at Eton Beach. Photo / Flickr

I highly recommend experiencing the unspoilt bliss of Lelepa Island, which looms on the west side of Efate’s Havannah Harbour. Day tours are slickly operated by Lelepa islanders, packaging a kaleidoscope of authentic experiences and insights into one magical day.  

After being dutifully collected from the Port Havannah, under a cavernous blue sky, we zipped across the glittering harbour as a pod of dolphins playfully splashed about seemingly on cue, before walking ashore onto Lelepa’s sugary sands. Local residents and guides, Japin and Aaron, led us on a fascinating rainforest tour, pointing out some signature botanical attributes. Draped in sycamore trees, the trunk is carved into an outrigger canoe. It takes one day to complete the mission.  

Japin pointed out a vine called One Day Rob, from which the juice is extracted and tipped into sea. It apparently makes the fish “drunk” and easy prey to catch. Meanwhile, the liquid in the leaf of the wild hibiscus is extracted by Lelepa locals as a traditional lubricant for pregnant women. When they go into labour, the expectant mother will drink the liquid, apparently ensuring the birth proceeds smoothly.   

As gentle winds fanned the swaying palms, Aaron emphasised the deep spiritual significance of the cycad palm, or namale, as the locals call it. It’s a profound symbol of peace in Vanuatu. Every village chief will have a namale growing outside his house and it’s enshrined on the national flag.  I was also led over to a cliff face of volcanic rock and limestone, which is home to scores of massive coconut crabs. Living between the cracks in the rock stack, these aggressive critters are a celebrated delicacy in Vanuatu. Snaring and subduing one of these crabs takes skill and agility. They only come out at night and if you’re not careful, they will bite your finger off with relative ease.  

Coconut crab on Lelepa Island. Photo / Flickr

One of the most iconic dishes to taste on Lelepa is laplap, often called the national dish of Vanuatu. Preparing laplap is an art form: grated root crops (like taro, yam, or breadfruit) are pounded into a dough-like consistency. The mixture is spread onto banana leaves, layered with coconut cream, meat, or island cabbage. Everything is carefully wrapped, then placed in an earth oven, known locally as a lovo – not dissimilar to a hangi. Hot rocks are hidden under the leaves creating an inbuilt slow cooker that traps smoky and earthy flavours.  

After enjoying a delicious lunch which also included local chicken, crisp salads, and succulent tropical fruits, I enjoyed a spot of snorkelling and kayaking in the crystalline, turquoise-tinted waters. Fels Cave brims with astonishing sights, including the rock drawings of men, fish and birds that date back to 900 AD. According to legend, the mighty chief Roi Mata died in this cave in the 16th century. It’s the size of this cave that surprised me, 60 metres long. Up until the 1840s, it served two key purposes: as a cyclone refuge but also as a hospice, where the village elders would spend their last days of their life. If these cave walls would talk, just imagine the stories! The locals illuminate the cave with candlelight for tourists to walk through, adding to its evocative atmosphere, along with the hundreds of squealing fruit bats that dangle from the cave ceiling!  

Fels Cave at Lelepa Island. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Our group were then escorted to the southwestern shoreline of Lelepa, which is festooned with spectacular coral gardens. An effortless snorkel rewards you with an extraordinary level of neon-coloured coral intensity. One final highlight is a stop at Lelepa Island’s village of Natapao. Brightly coloured laundry swayed on washing lines in this simple but tidy village. Lelepa Island is home to 500 residents and it’s the children that melt the heart. As we browsed from the extensive range of authentic souvenirs, an excitable group of young kids treated us to a village singalong, topping off a day to remember.  

Where to stay? Overlooking the gleaming waters of Port Vila Harbour, the emblematic Grand Hotel & Casino Vanuatu is looking radiant, bathed in a flamingo pink paint job, and after recently reopening fresh from a tip-to-toe renovation. Refreshed interiors draw deeply on the ocean and verdant landscape. Accommodations are magnificent. Traet yourself to a panoramic suite and wallow in the 280 degree floor-to-ceiling windows views, extending to a private balcony. On-site dining is splendid as is the waterfront pool deck. Make a date with the South Pacific’s boutique pink palace. 

Solomon Airlines flies direct from Auckland and Christchurch to Port Vila. Just 3 hours away, in a comfy A320, enjoy complimentary refreshments, tasty meals, charming service – and you’ll be in Vanuatu in no time. May until November sees Vanuatu at its glorious best: the dry season is sun-soaked and low in humidity. Home to a staggering 83 islands, this glorious archipelago is ripe for exploration and relaxation. 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard each week on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.