The weather could not have been a more idyllic. I was basking in the brilliance of Lake Taupō aboard the glorious replica steamboat, Ernest Kemp, as were several dozen guests from all over the world. Cruising the great lake for over 40 years, this gorgeous little vessel that accommodates 50 guests, began life in Kerikeri, named in honour of the last member of the Kemp family to live at Kemp House. A massive and damaging flood in the Kerikeri Inlet in 1981 prompted the sale of this shallow draught vessel, and Ernest Kemp began a new life feeling the lake’s freshwater on its hull, a year later.  

Taking a guided sightseeing cruise aboard this iconic boat is a splendid way to marvel over the lake’s scenic delights and its rich mythology. I even got a chance to take the wheel of the vessel, with unflattering results. I won’t be applying for a skipper’s licence anytime soon! But I loved how the steering wheel actually began life as a horse-drawn hose-reel used by fire brigades, decades ago. Similarly, the steam whistle was originally from a bush steam locomotive engine that hauled logs in the Central North Island. 

Cruising on the Ernest Kemp. Photo / Mike Yardley

In the glory of morning calm, the autumn sunshine cast the great lake in a deep shade of oceanic blue, as the water glinted like freshly cut diamonds. The immensity of this inland sea, which encompasses the size of Singapore, transfixed me as much as the wrapround totems to a deep and dramatic history. The thrusting peaks of the volcanic plateau brooded on the horizon and Motutaiko Island seemingly floated in the middle of the lake like a mirage. This treasured motu, guarded by taniwha, is sacred to Ngāti Tūwharetoa as a burial ground for chiefs dating back to the 1600s. It’s an ecological taonga too, a sanctuary to several endangered species.  

To the south, graceful Mount Pihanga, enrobed in bush, and the centre of wondrous Māori mythology. The neighbouring male volcanic mountains wanted to win the affections of pretty Pihanga, but none more so than the warring mountains of Taranaki and Tongariro. To the north of the lake, gaze over the striking silhouette of Mount Tauhara. It resembles the face of the sleeping warrior, backdropping the tourist mecca.  

Lost in the reverie of this storied landscape, and gazing over some irresistibly beautiful lakefront real estate, an unrivalled highlight is to drool over the gobsmacking artwork that adorns the rock face of Mine Bay, tucked away in Lake Taupō. As keen kayakers floated by, we got an intimate, up-close encounter, just metres away from this spell-binding rock carving. Back in the 1970s, Matahi Whakataka Brightwell’s grandmother asked him to create a likeness of her ancestor Ngātoroirangi on a totara tree.  

Mine Bay rock carvings. Photo / Mike Yardley 

When Matahi arrived in Taupō, there was no totara tree to carve, so he ventured onto the lake for inspiration. Mine Bay’s rock alcove became the canvas for one of the most sublime contemporary carvings New Zealand has ever seen, towering 14 metres above the deep water, with a supporting cast of smaller sculptures honouring other ancestors and guardians. Wearing just speedos and safety glasses, while standing on bamboo scaffolding, it took four years for Matahi and three fellow artists to complete this heroic artwork, and the smaller carvings depicting the lake’s taniwha and various cherished ancestors, surrounding the main work. It truly is an exceptional tour de force.  

For a complete change of pace, I was itching to rock some of Taupō’s much-vaunted mountain bike trails. And they won’t disappoint. Jonny Clapcott’s bike hire and guiding business, FourB, should be your first port of call. Alongside rentals and guiding, FourB also offers shuttle services to all the popular trails in the Taupō region. Based right across the road from the entrance to Craters Mountain Bike Park on Huka Falls Road, there’s over 50km of trails in the park alone, that span all grades and abilities. Equipped with a top-of-the-line e-Bike, enjoy some gripping rides from Taupō’s MTB offerings. First up, purr along some of the Huka Trails that vividly showcase the blinding beauty of those translucent aquamarine waters of the Waikato River as it charges from the lake to plunge down the falls.  

Craters mountain bike trails. Photo / Supplied 

There are some stupendous vistas and soothing native bush sections, including punga tree groves, as you thread higher and higher above the Huka Falls for a balcony view on nature’s theatre. Watching 220,000 litres of water per second thunder past you before barrelling down an 11 metre drop, is a frisson to thrill all the senses at Huka Falls. The clarity of the Waikato River’s water at its inception (sorry Hamilton) is beyond belief. It’s like liquid cellophane as it rushes past you. The brilliance of pumice as a trusty filtration system underpins the water’s gin-clear quality. Whether you’re on foot or by bike, the Huka Trails lustily excel in accentuating the exuberant visual splendour.  

More please? Hot-foot it into Craters Park, where those volcanic pumice soils deliver again, ensuring year-round riding on free-draining, grippy terrain. The trails thread through exotic pine and eucalyptus plantations, with a smattering of geothermal features adjoining the tracks, including gorgeous hot water streams, if you fancy a quick, curative dip. I do love thundering water works and if you need a further fix to complement Huka Falls, take a short ride down to the nearby Aratiatia Dam, which turns the narrow gorge into raging river within five minutes, several times a day.  Loud sirens ring out before the dam control gates open, before the trickling stream transforms into a torrent. It’s the next best thing to watching a flash flood, without any property damage. Trust me – it’s seriously addictive.  

Huka Falls. Photo / Supplied

For movie buffs, you’ll probably know that in The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug, the dwarves escaped from the captivity of the Elves by hiding in barrels which were thrown down stream. The Aratiatia Rapids on the Waikato River was one of the filming locations. Whether you’re after a self-guided or guided romp on the region’s bike trails, make FourB’s Hub your first stop.  

For a supremely languid contrast, treat yourself to the Wairakei Thermal Terraces which is a ravishing spot for a therapeutic soak. It’s such a dreamily beguiling setting, because the fern-fringed hot pools are tucked around the base of those wondrous silica terraces and waterfalls, which are constantly gushing and changing shape. To accentuate the tranquillity, pool access is restricted to adults only.  

Wairakei Terraces Pool. Photo / Supplied

Taupō is the sparkling jewel in the crown of North Island, power-packed with outdoors adventure from trout fishing and mountain-biking to the mesmerising spectacles of Huka Falls and the region’s steaming geothermal treasures. Satisfy your love of nature and lust for adventure by packing your bags for a getaway to Great Lake Taupō.

I rocked my way around the region in a trusty hybrid Toyota Rav4, from Ezi Car Rental. I thoroughly enjoyed the Ezi experience, where excellent vehicles, super sharp prices and fast & friendly service are all part of the package. Ezi Car Rental operates an extensive network from 24 branches across the country. They’re everywhere you want to be with vehicles to suit your specific needs.

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.