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Perspective with Heather du Plessis-Allan: Here's why I'm so stoked about the NZ Michelin launch

Author
Heather du Plessis-Allan,
Publish Date
Wed, 1 Jul 2026, 7:36pm
Michelin star winning chefs at the Michelin Guide 2026 awards at the NZICC Events Center on June 30, 2026 in Auckland, New Zealand. Herald photograph by Alyse Wright
Michelin star winning chefs at the Michelin Guide 2026 awards at the NZICC Events Center on June 30, 2026 in Auckland, New Zealand. Herald photograph by Alyse Wright

I totally run the risk of being way too much of a fangirl about the Michelin stars handed out, but I am so excited about this.

Mainly, I'm excited for the people who run those restaurants because I realise what this means for them. It means full bookings. It means international recognition. It means the ability to walk into a kitchen anywhere in the world and say, "I worked in a Michelin-starred restaurant," and have people know exactly what that means - and know that you're good.

I am also stoked for the people who love eating out. All of a sudden, there's a list to tick off, isn't there? How is it, for example, that I've eaten at Arataki Restaurant in Queenstown but never at Paris Butter in Auckland, even though it's just down the road from me? I now intend to rectify that quickly.

But there's also a part of me that is really pleased because this has righted a wrong - the local punishment that has been going on for Amisfield.

I don't dispute that the alleged behaviour of the former head chef wasn't good and I don't dispute that the owners of the restaurant should not have allegedly turned a blind eye to it for so long. But I did not like the fact that the establishment continued to be punished even after Vaughan Mabee, who was at the centre of the controversy, had left the building.

Especially by Cuisine magazine, which then refused to recommend Amisfield as a restaurant. Amisfield was the best restaurant in the country until, all of a sudden, it was no longer the best restaurant in the country according to Cuisine because one man had left.

Michelin has now righted that wrong by giving it a star. That decision was controversial. I've already read one take on it that wasn't entirely complimentary. But I don't care.

Because what I want to know is this: is Amisfield a good place to eat? Now that the legendary - and problematic -chef has gone, is it still good?

Apparently, the answer is yes.

But we had to get foreigners to tell us that because we all went a bit weird and a bit cancel-culture on the place.

For the record, I ate at Amisfield when the chef at the centre of the controversy was still there. It was one of the best meals I've ever had and I'm pleased it remains excellent - at least according to Michelin.

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