Mike Yardley: Headline experiences around Greymouth

If you’re planning a winter roadie on the South Island’s wild West Coast, don’t skip through Greymouth without gorging on some headline local experiences. Enrobed by chiselled cliff tops, wild beaches and the serene Grey Valley, Greymouth is not just a gateway to the region. The town centre is built on the site of the former Māori pa called Māwhera, which translates as 'wide spread river mouth’. The latest attraction in town that is the worth the trip alone is Pounamu Pathway – Māwhera.  

Wētā Workshop partnered with Poutini Ngāi Tahu, to create a string of Pounamu Pathway experience centres, celebrating the region’s cultural, historical, and natural heritage. Strung along the West Coast, the Greymouth centre has been open two years and it’s a stirring, story-telling experience with plenty of technological wizardry.  

If you’ve marvelled over those enormous sculptures in the Gallipoli exhibition in Te Papa, you’ll be equally awestruck by Māwhera’s staggering centrepiece, a giant sculpture of Tūhuru, the region’s renowned warrior chief. This super-sized sculpture is more than double the size of a human. I half expected him to spring into life! Tūhuru has been magnificently adorned with woven accessories and the world’s largest known pounamu hei tiki. The pendant weighs 8kg! 

Tūhuru at Pounamu Pathway. Photo / Mike Yardley 

As you will learn, Tūhuru is a revered Ngāi Tahu historic figure, not only because he was seven feet tall, but because he was a warrior chief who successfully led the conquest of the region by Ngāi Tahu. Ngāti Wairangi first settled here from the Taranaki in the 1500s. But Ngai Tahu were eager to seize control of their priceless pounamu trade. Tūhuru and his fellow warriors first destroyed Ngāti Wairangi’s pā at Māwhera, before ultimately waging a wider campaign and claiming the West Coast for Ngāi Tahu in the early 1800s.  

Poutini Ngāi Tahu became their West Coast branch, Tūhuru and his people established a new pā at Māwhera and settled there. The flourishing pounamu trade made Kaiapoi their commercial hub. Tūhuru died in the 1850s and was buried in a hillside cave behind the pā site, which is where the beautiful Pounamu Pathway centre is located today (it previously housed Revingtons Hotel). That’s another special feature about this centre, it’s located on Poutini Ngāi Tahu’s ancestral homeland. It is refreshing that the Pounamu Pathway centre has not sought to airbrush away the bloody inter-tribal warfare, for the pounamu trade. You’ll glean so many insights into the rich history of Greymouth/Māwhera, along with some wondrous mythology at this immersive multi-media experience. It’s truly a must-do treasure. 

Pounamu Pathway Māwhera galleries. Photo / Supplied 

Just out of town on the banks of the Grey River, take a stroll around the Brunner Mine Walk. Peaceful and sobering in equal measure, the easy 2km loop trail leads you through the relics of New Zealand’s worst industrial disaster 130 years ago, where 65 miners died in an explosion. Cross the historic 150-year-old suspension bridge to find the remains of old brick ovens, mine entrances and interpretive displays. 

More short and sweet walks? Just north of town, head to Rapahoe the Point Elizabeth Walkway. 90 mins return, the track climbs into the Rapahoe Scenic Reserve, one of the country’s finest remaining tracts of mixed coastal forest, extending from the limestone range out to the cliff edge. Mamaku (black tree ferns), nīkau palms, kawakawa and kiekie share this forest with some of New Zealand’s larger native podocarps. The trees were all aflutter with fantails, silver eyes, grey warblers, tomtits and kereru. Gradually the pounding sea can be heard again as big forest gives way to more stunted growth and waves of flax on the Point Elizabeth headland. The exposed rocky point lookout serves up panoramic views, with Mt. Cook scratching the southern skyline, while to the north, a battalion of rocky sea stacks waging war against the relentless, erosive forces of the ocean.  

Point Elizabeth walkway. Photo / DOC

Call into the nearby heritage-laden village of Runanga, steeped in mining and Labour Party history. I love how the street names pay homage to leaders of yore, from Ward, Seddon and Savage to Fraser, Balance and Ranfurly. The Runanga Miner’s Hall, bult in 1908, is like a totem to the formation of the union movement. It’s currently being fully restored to its former glory. The exterior is looking fantastic, and the community project is now faithfully restoring the interior. 

Runanga is home to one of the very best short walks on the West Coast, the Coal Creek Falls track. The trail originally led to the West Coast’s first commercial coal mine, but it now makes for a splendid 90 minute out-and-back stroll. At first, you’re walking through regenerating native forest before a mix of old-growth, podocarp and beech forest takes command of the terrain. It’s undulating in parts, but certainly not strenuous, and for much of the walk, the slinking Coal Creek stream flanks the trail. The great crescendo is the waterfall, a wide-bodied cascade, streaming over a sandstone ledge with a swimming hole at its base. Spectacularly photogenic, this is definitely one of the West Coast’s most beautiful waterfalls to savour. You can’t beat a walk that is crowned with a happy ending. 

Coal Creek Falls. Photo / DOC

Pounamu, gold, coal and timber have underpinned Greymouth’s economic backbone for over 200 years. Such thirsty work also gave rise to some crafty brews and Greymouth is home to Monteith’s Brewery - the original home of New Zealand craft brewing, reaching back to 1868. There are daily brewery tours at 4pm, but throughout the day, you can expect sparkling hospitality, cracking food and award-winning beers and ciders. 

The West Coast is famed for its characterful pubs, but there are two unmissable gems close to Greymouth. Formerly The Blackball Hilton is located at the foot of the Paparoa ranges, just 29km out of town. 110 years old this year, Formerly The Blackball Hilton has a long and fascinating history, in the town that is steeped in the Labour Party’s formation (although, some locals are now far more likely to vote New Zealand First). The old-school pub with its raffish charm sports its history lustily on its walls, while the hotel’s rustic architectural character has been faithfully maintained. And you’re just across the road from the town’s other great gem, The Blackball Salami Company, where their delicious salami is made from a variation of beef, pork and venison. Another indelible taste of the West Coast. 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.