Mike Yardley: Cultural treats around Nadi, Fiji

Before surrendering to the fly-and-flop horizontal pleasures of a Denarau resort or a palm-fringed island getaway, why not add a scoop of culture and history to your Fijian getaway? On my latest jaunt to Fiji, rather than just breezing through the gateway city of Nadi, I laid over for a couple of nights and was amply rewarded by dipping into the local sights. For a hearty dollop of culture and local insights, I locked in a cracking Discover Nadi sightseeing tour with Go Local Fiji Tours. Driver-guide Josiah strung together a highlights reel of eye-openers, lavished with his ebullient, engaging storytelling. 

It is generally accepted that the Lapita people, Neolithic Austronesians who originated from the northern Philippines, first settled Fiji around 3500 years ago. Their calling card is the distinct Lapita pottery, which has been found across the South Pacific. Melanesian migration followed about 500 years later and Josiah led me to Viseisei village, just north of Nadi. Generally recognised as the original landing site of the Melanesian canoes, it is here where most historians believe settlement began. This gorgeous seaside village, flanked by the serene sweep of Lomolomo Beach is enchanting to encounter. The chief’s bure proudly stands in the centre of this spiritually landmark village. The village is still led by a paramount chief and features traditional communal layouts, a chiefly bure (meeting house), and a chiefly burial ground.  

Chief's bure in Viseisei. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Viseisei remains a functioning, close-knit community that proudly preserves its customs, traditions, and chiefly system. And the villagers are wonderfully welcoming of curious passers-by.  Across the lawn, Fiji’s oldest church, Jone Wesele Methodist Church, which was built in 1835 on the spot where the first missionaries arrived. Be sure to check out the drumming hut (Bure ni Lali). The ancient sacred drum inside was used historically to summon villagers to hear the missionaries. The Fijian rugby team will often gather here to pray ahead of international matches.  

As was the case across the Pacific, missionaries dramatically changed traditional life. One of their first changes in Fiji was to end cannibalism. One 19th century Fijian chief, Ratu Udre Udre claimed to have eaten 872-999 bodies and kept a stack of stones outside his home, with each stone representing one person he had eaten. These symbolic stones are placed next to his grave in in Northern Viti Levu. Guinness World Records has classified him as the  “most prolific cannibal” – a designation not likely to be bested. 

Josiah also mentioned to me that James Cook was responsible for coining the word “Fiji.” The story goes that he asked a villager the name of the island he’d reached. He thought they said ‘feegee.” The villager had actually said, “Viti.” So a whole country name was created because of the mishearing of a pronunciation!  

From there, we then headed to the foothills of Sabeto. Shaped like the profile of a reclining giant, they are home to the aptly-named Garden of the Sleeping Giant. It is one of the area’s most tranquil and picturesque spots. Originally founded 50 years ago by Canadian actor Raymond Burr (Perry Mason and Ironside) as a spot for him to farm and garden, it is still home to an expansion of his original orchid collection. There are also gardens with lily ponds, fruit trees and giant elephant ear plants. A gentle walking trail winds up and down through the lush tropical gardens with rest stops along the way, leading to a soaring lookout where you can take in wide-horizon views over the surrounding valley and Mamanuca Islands.  

Garden of the Sleeping Giant. Photo / Mike Yardley 

This deliciously lush and scenic area is also home to the Sabeto natural hot springs and mud pools. Not dissimilar to Rotorua’s offerings with mud, slather your entire body with mineral-rich mud before languidly soaking in pools that vary in heat and clarity the further you wander. The mud is revered for its healing properties. Don’t forget to cake your face in the gloopy goodness to enhance your complexion. Massages are also available if you want to extend the relaxation a little longer. 

Josiah mentioned that back in the day, locals would always walk on top of Sabeto’s foothills to get around, because walking in the lowlands by Viseisei and the Vuda Coast raised the risk of being viewed as an enemy and cannibalised. Nowadays of course, the backroads on the outskirts of Nadi, are ideal for hitting the pedals. iBike Fiji will kit you out with an e-Bike and fabulous guided tours, passing sugarcane fields and groves of palm trees among the Sabeto foothills, and calling into organic farms. Theres lots of stops for fresh coconuts, fruits and local tales about the area. 

Biking below the Sabeto Mountain Range. Photo / iBike Fiji

For beachside beats in Nadi, head to Wailoaloa Beach, just behind the airport runway. Once solely a haunt for locals and backpackers on a budget, Wailoaloa Beach has become a buzzing hangout spot for local families. As the sun sets, beachside restaurants crank up the music and party vibes. 

Back in town on Queens Road, be sure to marvel over the Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami Temple. The dazzling, radiant display of colour and intricate southern Indian Dravidian architecture is a stunner. Its vibrant gopura (temple tower) and vividly painted sculptures reach full colour saturation in the mid-morning sunshine. The main sanctum hosts daily ceremonies for practicing Hindus, while smaller shrines around the complex are dedicated to various deities. Visitors are welcome to explore the temple, which is the largest Hindu temple in the Southern Hemisphere. You’ll be asked to cover your knees with a sarong, which are available at the main entrance. 

Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami Temple. Photo / Densibin 

And nothing beats shopping like a local at Nadi Municipal Market, where stalls overflow with tropical fruit, fresh vegetables, coconut oil, and handwoven crafts. You’ll almost always find papayas, coconuts, cucumbers, eggplants and bananas in season, with mangoes, avocados, pineapples, watermelon, and bush limes appearing when the time is right. I’m a big fan of the pineapple sticks carved like lollipops, fresh coconut candy, fried bread (babakau), and soft roti parcels filled with curry. If you’re after local crafts, the market goods are decidedly cheaper than the major gift stores – and the vendors are fully aware what will and won’t get through biosecurity in New Zealand. 

Where to stay? Accor has two excellent and sharply-priced options if you’re planning a few nights in Nadi. Just five minutes from the airport, Novotel Nadi boasts a wide array of air-conditioned guest rooms and facilities suitable for couples and families, with a gorgeous restaurant overlooking 42 acres of tropical gardens. Breakfast on the garden terrace is a blissful way to start your day at Novotel. Talei Restaurant delivers superb European cuisine with plenty of Pacific specialties. And with many New Zealand flights departing early, Novotel offers breakfast from 5.30am for early-flyers.  

Balcony views at Novotel Nadi. Photo / Accor

In the heart of Nadi, but still just a 10 minute drive away from the airport, Mercure Hotel Nadi graces five acres of beautiful tropical gardens offers 85 spacious rooms. They all surround a very agreeable tropical style pool, which fast became my happy place when the humidity started to takes its toll. Mercure Nadi also features Rokete Restaurant and Bar, with a great buffet breakfast, all-day dining and satisfying cocktails. True to Fiji’s sparkling reputation in the hospitality stakes, customer service is ebullient, hearty and outgoing. Bula!  

Mercure Hotel Nadi. Photo / Accor

Fly to Nadi and beyond from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch with Fiji Airways. The award-winning carrier offers sharply-priced options to Fiji and for long-haul Trans-Pacific travel, whether you’re wishing to jet to Vancouver, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Honolulu, Tokyo, Singapore or Hong Kong. Similarly, Fiji Airways offers a wide range of services to South Pacific destinations. Between New Zealand and Fiji, the Boeing 737 MAX fleet service the routes. Bula Space has been recently added to the cabin, which is the extra legroom seating option in economy class, if you want to stretch out. The 34-inch seat pitch certainly delivers more space than standard economy seats and Bula Space is available for purchase as part of seat selection. 

At Nadi Airport, I sampled Fiji Airways Premier Lounge and enjoyed a cracking breakfast buffet. The barista whipped me up a flawless flat white, too. It’s a beautifully appointed space, edged with a gorgeous vertical garden, with all the creature comforts you’d expect from a premium carrier. Business class guests have complimentary access to the lounge, although any Fiji Airways passenger can purchase lounge entry for $135FJD, subject to availability on the day. For best fares and seats to suit, head to  

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Saturday Morning with Jack Tame.