Mike Yardley: Luxury escape to Holme Station Homestead

Purring through the tucks and folds of South Canterbury’s crinkled hinterland, the sense of anticipation was rising. Just west of Timaru, with the vast arc of the Hunters Hills backdropping the painterly landscape, my destination was Holme Station Homestead, set back from the Pareora River in Southburn. If you share my hankering for a grand historic escape, swathed in scenic seclusion, this is quite the address. Fresh from a monumental tip-to-toe restoration, the homestead has only been hosting guests since May – but the secret is spilling out to the world. Welcome to South Canterbury’s first and only luxury lodge. It’s the evocative sense of history that is a proud and constant refrain, caressing every aspect of an indelible stay here. History endures at Holme Station Homestead. It is a living, breathing link to our past, thoughtfully woven through to the present and fit-for-purpose for future generations. 

Holme Station was founded in 1864 by English settler Edward Elworthy as one of our first and largest pioneer farms, commanding over 80,000 acres and running over 46,000 sheep. He also turned his attention to cropping, with the result that Holme Station became one of the major grain-producing properties in the colony. But sheep farming, particularly merino, was the station’s mainstay. By the 1890s, the Elworthy family owned more freehold land than anyone else in South Canterbury. The original cob homestead was steadily added to as the family grew, eventually comprising 40 rooms!  

Photo / Holme Station

It ultimately became one of the most hospitable houses in Canterbury, legendary for its lavish balls, entertainment and hunts, among run-holders across the district. The homestead is believed to be one of the earliest private residences in New Zealand to be powered by its own local hydro-electric plant. Sadly, the original homestead was razed by a chimney fire in 1910. What you see today is its replacement, with the Elworthys commissioning a Sydney-based architect to design the new homestead. Its Lutyens Arts and Craft style was inspired by the just-completed Clubhouse at the Royal Sydney Golf Club.   

Just to the north of Holme Station, Levels Station which was established by the Rhoes brothers in 1851 as South Canterbury’s first sheep station. It was from here that James Mackenzie stole 1,000 sheep and drove them inland to the basin that bears his name. Castle Claremont (built for the Rhodes) is also synonymous with Levels – and prominently features on The Traitors TV show. History abounds in these parts and the Elworthy Library Room is a delightful space to escape, brimming with stories of the past. History buffs will be in seventh heaven. Throughout the homestead, beautiful photography and historic artefacts lend a homely but museum-worthy vibe to the taonga and family heirlooms on display. 

The library at Holme Station Homestead. Photo / Holme Station 

Among its procession of famous visitors, I was fascinated to learn about how the grand homestead was where New Zealand's first Governor-General created Britain's Pacific defence strategy. Admiral of the Fleet Viscount John Jellicoe was a war hero after achieving a strategic victory over the German Imperial Fleet. Prior to becoming our first GG, Lord Jellicoe shifted into Holme Station in 1919 with Lady Jellicoe, to secretly map out his defence strategy to avert the Japanese threat in the Pacific. Our current Governor-General Dame Cindy Kiro recently enjoyed a stay here.  

You should too. No expense was spared during the recent restoration by the homestead’s current owner, Rosie Gordon. With a background in property management, Rosie’s meticulous attention to detail and thoughtful design verve is manifestly spectacular. In conversation with Rosie, her passion is infectious for striking the right balance between refreshing the property as a heritage-laden luxury retreat, while ensuring it remains faithfully steeped in its sense of place. Contemporary elegance and comfort have been tightly calibrated to remain in harmony with the authentic New Zealand craftsmanship, rich historical significance, and abundant sense of homeliness that Holme Station Homestead so radiantly exudes. The trappings of luxury are restrained – not flashy or over-the-top.  

The living room at Holme Station Homestead. Photo / Holme Station 

The interiors and furnishings feature New Zealand’s finest natural materials, particularly wool, which helps pay homage to the estate’s stirring pastoral heritage. There’s over 200 glorious metres of freshly laid Cavalier Bremworth wool carpet throughout the property. The woollen drapes were woven in Oamaru. Dining room chairs are swathed in Harris Tweed. The gorgeous club-like Sportsman’s Lounge sports Chesterfield leather lounge suites and the softest possum fur throw rugs. It’s just the spot for pre-dinner drinks.  

Bathrooms brim with gleaming brass fittings and 12 tonnes of marble! Rosie is a stickler for ensuring the property remains intimately engaged with the wider community, remarking how staggered she is by the vast array of creative artisans and specialists in the district, whether it be antique dealers, upholstery restorers, artists, craftspeople or artisan food producers. In-room complimentary goodies include HSH Lavender & Magnesium Cream, HSH Local Honey Lavender Soap, and HSH Clover Honey Chocolate. The honey and lavender are locally produced. The homestead’s grand piano was recently tuned by a Timaru chap who used to tune the pianos at Buckingham Palace.  

Elegant en-suits at Holme Station. Photo / Holme Station 

Accommodations are another masterclass in respectful design and stylish comfort, with eight individually designed suites and guest rooms upstairs– swathed in bucolic views and botanical calm. The property’s 16 acres of sprawling gardens is a starring feature. I felt like I was savouring a vast private botanical garden, that is beautifully maintained. Interestingly, Edward Elworthy’s groundkeeper was later commissioned to develop Waimate’s botanic gardens – and the similarities in design are self-evident. First established in the 1860s, Holme Station’s gardens unfurl a blend of English, New Zealand and Australian influences.  

It’s the 19th century-planted specimen trees that project a deep sense of continuity, as berry-binging kererū whoosh-whoosh, overhead. The original roses, planted over a century ago, continue to bloom. There are over 110 species of trees to explore. I particularly loved admiring the weeping elms that are scattered around the grounds. Their long and drooping branches create a wondrous, circular sense of a leaf-laden circus tent. They are so striking. Needless to say, the homestead and grounds make for a dreamy wedding venue.  

A weeping elm tree at Holme Station. Photo / Mike Yardley 

We enjoyed the most insatiable high tea, alongside their blazing daffodil garden, spreading across 5 acres. After admiring the homestead’s enormous walk-in kitchen pantry (how very Downton Abbey), it was a thrill to discover our high tea was served on plates that formed part of Edward & Sarah Elworthy’s wedding dinner set. The delectable and dainty array of flavourful morsels, arranged on tiered-stands, was prepared by the homestead’s recently appointed chef, Paul Kepa. His custard, almond and plum sauce pie was insatiably good.  

Paul has joined Holme Station Homestead from Huka Lodge. His redoubtable culinary finesse is guaranteed to be a runaway highlight of your stay. Our divine dinner included an entrée of snapper in a coconut sauce, before noshing heartily on a kimchi and zucchini salad in ponzu sauce, and the most exquisitely executed, melt-in-your-mouth pork belly dish. All dietary needs will be happily catered for. Never far from the kitchen, as he tends to your breakfast, lunch and dinner, he’s a delight to engage with, and only too happy to spill some of his culinary secrets. I was also intrigued to learn this exceptional Māori chef has been a representative rugby player, including playing for the Western Force.   

Custard, almond, and plum pie. Photo / Mike Yardley 

As you’d expect from a country lodge of this stature, there’s an array of experiences on offer, from farm and art tours to whisky tastings, helicopter adventures - or perhaps a spot of fly-fishing, which is what Lord Jellicoe particularly adored about Holme Station.  General Manager Rob Poole, a seasoned pro in the tourism industry, led us on a remarkable excursion to some ancient indigenous art. Suitably ensconced in a top-of-the-line Land Rover, we headed for Craigmore Station, which was once part of Holme Station and is still owned by the Elworthys – unquestionably, New Zealand family farming royalty.   

We paused to admire a basalt rock memorial, erected by the Elworthy family on a lofty mound, paying homage to their forebears. From this spot, and as far as the eye can see, all the land previously fell within the boundaries of Holme Station, over a century ago before Edward sold off some holdings to clear debt. He then allocated 10,000 acres to each of his three surviving sons. Herbert established Craigmore Station, and the 1907 homestead is still there today, currently home to Forbes and Bridget Elworthy.  They are sticklers for sustainable farming. Forbes’ father was Sir Peter Elworthy, a legendary leader of Federated Farmers back in the 1980s.  

Touring the rock art on Craigmore Station. Photo / Holme Station

Speaking of that basalt memorial, Rob mentioned how nearby Mt. Horrible was the last volcano to erupt in Canterbury, spewing rock and lava across the countryside. If you’ve noticed how corrugated the terrain is on the northern flanks of Timaru, that is actually a sprawling lava flow from the eruption – not limestone. The cooled basalt formed those northern hills and also created the Timaru bluestone used in in many regional buildings.  

The frisky spring lambs were frolicking under the morning sun as we soaked up the pastoral sights and ravishing high-country landscapes. But the real headliner is the ancient Māori rock art lurking on the ceiling and walls of valley rock shelters, tucked away in the hinterland. Craigmore Station is home to some enchanting rock shelters, where faint charcoal drawings of three giant moa remain. It’s called the Moa Valley cave and local iwi believe it was a prime hunting ground for the giant moa, snaring them in the steephead valley. The nearby Hunters’ Hills take their name from the area being such a prime hunting ground for Māori.  

Rock overhangs filled with ancient charcoal drawings at Craigmore Station. Photo / Mike Yardley

Also on Craigmore Station, another limestone overhang, which served as a natural resting place and shelter along an ancient pathway across to the West Coast, has priceless drawings of Haast’s eagle – the giant wedge-tailed eagle. They were created by Waitaha people 700–1000 years ago, the first major group of Māori to settle in the South Island, and these evocative images are clearly among the region’s earliest artworks. The Elworthy family had incredible foresight to permanently safeguard these open-air art galleries and the landscapes, with QEII covenants, in 1987. They are remarkable hidden treasures to savour as part of an irresistible stay at Holme Station Homestead.  

And it’s those inter-woven narratives from the area’s storied history, spanning indigenous settlement and European farming pioneers in South Canterbury, that profoundly sets apart the entire experience of staying here. Holme Station’s greatest luxury is its abundant sense of peace and space, swathed in deliciously scenic, undulating hinterland. It feels grounded, sure-footed and resonates with reverential pride. I asked Rosie if she had a five-year plan. Where would she like things to be, five years from now? Without hesitation, she suggested, “I’d like Holme Station Homestead to be a household name.” It is an exceptional destination to truly disconnect, to indulgently treat the senses, and reflect on our shared back-story of building a nation. And a place to call home. 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.