Mike Yardley: Soaking up the Vancouver vibe

Fresh off the fever of the FIFA Football World Cup, Vancouver has been a fond and familiar sight on our screens. Undeniably one of the world’s most photogenic cities, it’s the interlay of soaring mountain ranges and sweeping waterways that quickly proves so seductive. I’m freshly back from my third visit to Vancouver and it’s the drama of the scenery that continues to command my affections, alongside its urban enticements. For a ringside seat on its geographical splendour, Canada Place is the city’s beating heart, first built for the World Expo forty years ago. It’s a stunning vantage point to survey the supreme landscape cradling the city. Every day at high noon you’ll hear the airhorns cheerfully blast out the first four bars of “O Canada”. 

Better still, grab some rental bikes and strike out on the sweeping waterfront path, thoughtfully separating strollers from cyclists. It was heaving with humanity as my feet hit the pedals, but that path laces together so many waterside gems. From Canada Place, I biked around the glistening waterfront, past the float plane terminal to Coal Harbour and on to Stanley Park, where the famed seawall lassoes the entire park.  

Canada Place. Photo / Mike Yardley 

The gleaming skyline views are worth taking your time over, set against that deep blue water. I’ve always been intrigued by the near uniform hue of the tinted glass that clads the ever-growing forest of apartment towers in Vancouver. To me, it looks like aquamarine, but a local remarked its “seafoam green” tinted glass. Officially though, it’s dubbed Yaletown Green – largely driven by urban design and energy-efficiency guidelines, and the city's preference for glass towers to blend naturally into the surrounding ocean and mountain environment. 

Stanley Park is a marvel, a 1000-acre wonderland and the biggest urban park in North America. Originally a military reserve, this expansive green space was handed over to the city in 1891. Flora buffs will be enchanted by the Rose Garden and Rhododendron Garden, which are Vancouver’s most popular wedding photo spots. In a striking salute to Vancouver’s First Nation people, the collection of eight brightly coloured totem poles is well worth admiring. There’s plenty of family-family attractions including a children’s farmyard, miniature railway and the sublime aquarium centre, sporting over 9000 sea creatures. I was particularly excited to see the fan-favourites, the rescued sea otters in all their playful glory. 

Sea otters at Vancouver Aquarium. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Stanley Park is so good, I ventured back the following day to take in the sights at a far more leisurely pace. Jump on board on of their old-fashioned horse-drawn carriage tours, organically powered by hay and oats. A Stanley Park staple for over a century, the draught horses that power these rides are probably amongst the most pampered animals in the city, with a strictly governed workload and ample downtime. I was hauled around the park by Grit and Percy on an hour guided story-telling tour, clip-clopping through the natural splendour. There’s a stack of sights including Lions Gate Bridge, the Coastal Red Cedar Forest and various landmarks like Vancouver’s answer to the Little Mermaid statue – the Girl in a Wet Suit.  

To the east of Canada Place, stroll down to Gastown. This was the birthplace of colonial Vancouver, named in honour of “Gassy” Jack Deighton, an English sailor who jettisoned his day-job to open the city’s first saloon. A humorous bronze statue of Gassy Jack posing on top of a beer barrel adorns the Cordova and Water St intersection. Gastown has been revitalised as a heritage precinct, studded with a huge range of souvenir shops, bars and restaurants. For gift shopping, Hudson House can’t be beaten. Their woollen maple leaf jerseys are superb. Pause to admire Gastown’s eclectic Steam Clock, which bursts into life every 15 minutes blowing steam and whistling. Despite its antique good looks, it was only constructed 50 years ago to cover a sidewalk steam vent, harness the underground steam to power the clock's whistles and chiming mechanism, while also deterring loiterers from sleeping on the warm grate. Whistling every fifteen minutes is quite the move-on order.  

The crowd-pulling Steam Clock in Gastown. Photo / Mike Yardley 

To the south, happening Yaletown is known for its old brick warehouse buildings now home to hip restaurants and cocktail lounges, many with buzzing outdoor patio eateries, as well as indie fashion and decor boutiques. It has an artsy but edgy vibe. It’s also home to BC Place Stadium, host venue of the FIFA World Cup and slaughterhouse for the All Whites. Edging False Creek, Science World is just across the water, with its giant dome lustily transformed into a FIFA football. There are a variety of Creekside neighbourhoods to hop-scotch your way around. Jump on board a False Creek ferry —it looks like Little Toot— and buzz your way around.  

The biggest destination on False Creek is Granville Island Public Market. Technically the island is actually a sandbar, but semantics aside, the public market is the second most visited visitor attraction in Canada, after Niagara Falls! It’s part farmer’s market, part food hall, and part arts fair. But the food hall proper, is one of the most impressive affairs I’ve come across, worldwide. It’s absolutely where you’ll be rubbing shoulders many top restaurant chefs, as they source ingredients for the evening menu.  

Good looks on Granville Island. Photo / Mike Yardley

With over 150 permanent retailers and vendor stalls, the abundance of temptations is a formidable test of impulse control. You can lustily graze your way on fragrant pastries and artisan cheese as you go, although for more substantial dining, the international food court, at the heart of the market, is where to head. My recommended stops include Benton Brother's Fine Cheese, Stuart’s Artisan Bakery for their maple-glazed cinnamon rolls – and how could you say no to a honey-dipped donut from Lee's Donuts? Beyond the public market, the wide array of designer stores and art studios is always enthralling. Another area signature is Granville Island Brewing.  Pop in for a very agreeable Maple Cream Ale! While you’re in the neighbourhood, check out one of Vancouver’s leafy, old-school neighbourhoods – Kitsilano. The time-honoured Victorian finery of the mansions and villas, interspersed with waterside modern builds is all drool-worthy real-estate porn.   

Stuart's Bakery at Granville Public Market. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Where to stay? AZUR Legacy Collection Hotel is an elegant new addition to Vancouver’s downtown hotel scene, fusing an art-filled aesthetic with tech-forward luxury and the city’s sexiest bathrooms. Customer service is impeccable - convivial, personable and attentive. There’s a splendid year-round restaurant on its rooftop patio, while the bustling bistro-style restaurant Dahlia is in the lobby (you must try their honey-spiked granola parfait for breakfast).  

Throughout the hotel, the gallery of art works adorning its walls and the twinkling chandeliers are really impressive. Art deco-style influences abound from the fluted metal light sconces to the silk-covered curved corridors in this design-conscious hotel. Surprisingly there’s no fitness facilities on-site, but you can maintain your gym routine thanks to a complimentary pass at the generously equipped YWCA health and fitness centre, a few doors down.  

Suite life at AZUR Legacy Hotel. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Guestrooms and suites are spaciously sized, homely and positively sing with sophistication. They’re equipped with Nespresso machines, wireless chargers, Chromecast TVs and sleek hidden power points. The bathrooms are a triumph: black and white veined marble, heated floors, brass rainfall shower and taps, and L’Occitane toiletries. My suite also boasted a divine soaker tub with a brass bath caddy; a marble fireplace in the separate lounge; pops of blue velvet and alcove shelves displaying curated art pieces. 

Whether you’re staying in-house or not, be sure to experience the Lavantine Rooftop Restaurant and Skybar. This custom-designed, garden-inspired rooftop dining destination offers an unforgettable experience, with dreamy panoramas across Vancouver. It’s a favourite spot among in-the-know locals. Blending the vibrant flavours of Levantine cuisine with fresh West Coast ingredients, Lavantine delivers contemporary Mediterranean dishes, like their gorgeous gently spiced Aleppo lamb kebabs with tangy labneh. As one of the few rooftop restaurants in downtown Vancouver, it’s the cherry on top of a very memorable hotel stay.  

Flying daily between Auckland and Vancouver non-stop, travel in comfort with Air New Zealand on the well-timed overnight flights across the Pacific. Air New Zealand has rolled out even more comfort options in the economy cabin. I enjoyed a fully-stretched out sleep in Economy Skycouch, which has been a familiar feature on long-haul flights since 2010. The row of seats transforms into a couch when the footrests are fully lifted. It’s a great-value option for solo travellers or families. Air New Zealand has also recently introduced Economy Stretch to the front of cabin, delivering up to 39% more legroom than a standard economy seat, plus you’ll be kitted out with premium headphones. Economy Stretch is just an additional $170 per person, per flight on the Vancouver route. For best fares and seats to suit, 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard each week on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.