Mike Yardley: Heritage treats in Montreal

The island metropolis of Montreal prides itself on being eclectic and cosmopolitan, a city of style and elegance with a cracking culinary scene, impressively bilingual and where arts and culture thrive. All of this is wrapped within the venerable bones of a heritage-proud city where the past and present overlay each other. It shivers through winter but shines in summer, with locals flocking to the patio bars and cafes that festoon Montreal with fabled al fresco exuberance.   

If you’re a newbie to Montreal, a great starting point to get acquainted with this multifaceted city is down in Place Royale at the Museum of Archaeology and History (Pointe-à-Callière Museum). Hop in the lift and head underground to the foundations of the city’s original French settlement of the 1640s. Revealed in 1989 following an archaeological dig, this striking museum has preserved the foundations, walls and unearthed artifacts of the 17th century settlement, all brilliantly illuminated.  

Downtown Montreal from Mont-Royal. Photo / Flickr

Before wandering through the remains of the six buildings, a stirring multi-media show whisks you through a potted history of Montreal’s development, its highs and lows over 375 years. It’s a dramatic, poignant and uplifting narration of the city’s back-story, artfully produced as a gripping entertainment spectacle. Place Royale is situated in Old Montreal’s port district (Vieux-Port De Montreal) gracing the banks of the St. Lawrence River.  

Serious coin has been lavished on transforming the port district in recent years into a premier recreation promenade for strolls and bike rides, studded with an array of trendy waterfront eateries and attractions like a London Eye-style observation wheel. Founded by the French in 1642, the harbourside area of Vieux-Montreal is studded with hundreds of magnificently preserved heritage buildings, criss-crossed by cobbled lanes on which horse-drawn carriages clatter by. Brimming with sidewalk cafes, bistros, boutiques and buskers, you don’t need to meander for long before feeling architecturally drunk.  

Café hopping in Old Montreal. Photo / Mike Yardley 

If you’re short on time, the most spectacular street that will charm the pants off you is Rue St. Paul. Also unmissable is Place d’Armes, Montreal’s historic public square, anchored by Canada’s blockbuster cathedral, Notre-Dame Basilica. Designed by a protestant architect, James O’Donnell, in 1824, the story goes that he was so exhilarated by his finished product that he converted to Catholicism. This soaring Gothic Revival confection, which can house 3200 worshippers, is adorned with intricate statues and tranquil chapels. Most importantly, it’s where Celine Dion got married in 1994. The square is flanked by some other masterpiece structures – my favourite being the Aldred Building, which was Montreal’s first skyscraper. It uncannily resembles the Empire State Building and was completed about the same time.  

Another eye-pleaser is the former Royal Bank of Canada, gracing Rue saint Jacques, which back in the day was the Wall Street of Canada, lined with prestigious financial houses. Nearly a century old, the former RBC was the tallest skyscraper in the British Empire when it opened. It’s a remarkable building to venture inside, projecting enormous grandeur with an opulent Italian Renaissance-inspired interior, from the coffered ceiling and marble counters to the bronze wickets that evoke the grand palazzos of Florence. The elegant main floor of the Florentine palazzo-style skyscraper is home to a fabulous café, Crew Collective, where the serving space has repurposed the marble teller counters from the banking era. You’d struggle to find a more glamourous perch to order up a double shot espresso. La Voute Nightclub is housed in the former bank vault. 

Café splendour in the former Royal Bank of Canada. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Mont-Royal (Royal Mountain) backdrops downtown Montreal and this 760 foot hill literally gave rise to the city’s name. Draping much of this lofty mound is Parc du Mont-Royal, a sprawling green space clad in oak, maple and poplar trees. This beloved urban oasis, which offers great respite from the concrete jungle and summer humidity, was designed in the 1840s by Frederick Olmsted, the same fella responsible for New York’s Central Park. Two cemeteries sit along the northern slope, one of which is traditionally English Protestant while the other is French Catholic, emblematic of the city’s dual strands. Also worth a look is the sacred dome of St. Joseph’s, perched at the summit of Mont-Royal. Pilgrims believe their prayers will be answered by climbing the 99 steps to the basilica, on their knees. Alternatively, there's a shuttle that can zip you up to the summit. Divine intervention not included.  

In a city brimming with ostentatious churches, one of my favourites Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde (Mary Queen of the World Cathedral). Adjacent to the Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth, if the exterior looks familiar, it could well be because this glorious church is a quarter-scale replica of St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican – complete with a faithful reproduction of Bernini’s ornate altar canopy. If you’re planning some intrepid sightseeing, purchase a MTL passport that gives you access to 21 activities, museums, attractions around the city and free access to public transportation.  

Where to stay? Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth is the city’s legendary 21-level hospitality landmark, nestled directly atop Central Station. Celebrated for hosting John Lennon and Yoko Ono’s 1969 "Bed-in for Peace", the property blends mid-century railway heritage with contemporary luxury (Lennon wrote and recorded Give Peace a Chance in Room 1742). It’s a whopper-sized hotel, boasting 950 guestrooms, all reinvigorated with warm, inviting colours and sharp lines. The atmosphere is a blend of contemporary décor with an infusion of ’60s style as a throwback to the 1958 inauguration.  

Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth guestroom. Photo / Fairmont 

My room enjoyed a gorgeous view of the saints adorning the cathedral’s façade. There’s a variety of dining venues on-site, including the sprawling Marché Artisans gourmet food shop, with an endless selection of artisanal delights to peruse. Stop by for lunch at one of the many made-to-order counters, pick up ready-to-eat dishes or even do a spot of grocery shopping! The hotel is also connected to Montreal’s famous “underground city,” with easy access to the central train station for and the 19-mile network of restaurants, shops and attractions, lurking beneath the street.  

Travelling by train is a thrill in Canada, particularly if you’re shuttling between Toronto, Montreal and Québec City. VIA Rail Canada trains are efficient, comfy and equipped with complimentary on-board Wi-Fi. Treat yourself to business class and you’ll enjoy a host of comforts from the business lounge at the main train stations and priority boarding to the supreme sense of space and comfort onboard. The seats have been refashioned with leather upholstery, along with an adjustable footrest, wide tray table and in-seat recline. Stretch out and relax. Best of all, whether you’re travelling during breakfast, lunch, or dinnertime, you get to choose from a hand-picked selection of delicious meals. Plus, the bar service will keep you well lubricated, whether you’re after beer or wine, soft drinks, tea and coffee. For best fares and seats to suit, head to viarail.ca.

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard each week on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.