Mike Yardley: Rolling with the Rocky Mountaineer

Awaking to the elemental splendour of Stanley Park, the Burrard Inlet, and the North Shore Mountains, I was up early at the Westin Bayshore in Vancouver, buzzing with anticipation. I had a hot date with a legendary rail excursion. Arriving at the Vancouver station and after a whip-smart check-in experience, the bagpipes were in full cry, as Mike —a Nova Scotia-born piper— serenaded our departure in style in-front of the gleaming navy blue and gold livery of the carriages. Pulled by two locomotives, our twelve carriages, housing over 500 guests, purred out of Vancouver as hordes of ground staff warmly waved us off.    

The rail season runs from April to October, and the most popular route is the ‘‘First Passage to the West’’, which connects Vancouver with Lake Louise and Banff. The flagship journey tootles along the final leg of the line that united British Columbia with the rest of Canada. From the long meander of emerald-green, glacier-fed rivers to nature’s soaring cathedrals of the Continental Divide, the two-day rail ride is all exalted scenery and wildlife viewing opportunities.  

A piper's welcome to the train. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Even the most seasoned travellers agree that experiencing the Rocky Mountaineer will leave you in swirl of superlatives with its unswerving commitment to delivering the best: in hospitality, comfort, cuisine, and knock-out scenery. Elevate the encounter by booking seats in GoldLeaf Service. There are two primary carriage classes – SilverLeaf is a single-level carriage with oversized windows and gourmet meals serviced at your seat. But GoldLeaf Service is seriously next level, a bi-level carriage with upstairs seating under a full-glass panoramic dome, while the lower level houses a dedicated gourmet dining room and galley. You’ll also have access to an exclusive outdoor viewing platform, while the heated, reclining leather seats are the epitome of pampered comfort. Yes, GoldLeaf is pricey. It will typically cost you around $2000 a day, but as my travel companion remarked, “it is reassuringly expensive.” You know you’re in for something special.   

As the percussion of the train soon found its rhythm, the effervescent on-board hospitality flawlessly hums without ever missing a beat. My two hosts, Eliza and Abbie, royally treated our carriage-load of guests with their winning mix of ultra-attentive service, informal charm, and insightful commentary. The drinks flowed freely and regularly, as did the three-course dining service, for breakfast and lunch. As we followed the straggle of Vancouver’s outer suburbs, I gorged heartily on the first of four meals, all so beautifully executed by the restaurant staff.  

Onboard hosts Abbie and Eliza. Photo / Mike Yardley 

The breakfast menu runs the gamut from Classic Eggs Benedict with hash browns, citrus greens and smoked paprika hollandaise, to Lemon & Honey Buttermilk Pancakes with stone fruit compote and maple syrup. Lunch was an equally radiant affair where the highlights included maple-glazed Pork Tenderloin, Dungeness Crab Raviloi and crispy skin Kuterra Steelhead trout. Somehow, I found room for the extravagant desserts, plus the freshly-baked breads like the garlic and herb focaccia were irresistible. 

The first day’s travel would finish in Kamloops for overnight hotel accommodation, ahead of the second day’s crowning glory in the Canadian Rockies. But enroute to Kamloops, there were a stack of sights that stirred me from my pampered slumber, grabbing my visual attention. A freshly snow-topped Mt Baker reared its head on the horizon, from across the border. Reaching a similar height to Mt. Cook, it was an imperious sight of American might. The Cascade Mountains shuffled into view as we glided by the Fraser River, steeped in fur trading and goldrush history, with some storied old structures standing sentinel, like the Alexandra Suspension Bridge.  

Brutal, wild landscape views from the Rocky Mountaineer. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Entering Fraser Canyon, Hell’s Gate is an arresting sight as the surging water thunders through the narrow gorge with foam-flecking fury. Apparently two million salmon swim through each year to reach their spawning grounds. Harbour seals are often spotted in the brackish waters of the Fraser, binging on salmon, swimming as much as 50km upstream. Nearby, Jackass Mountain is a hangover from the gold-rush era and the Cariboo Wagon route, when mules lugged supplies across the lofty pass – many slipping to their deaths on the perilously narrow route. I kept keeping the camera poised on a timely turn to snap the sinuous curve of the train and some of the bridges crossing the Fraser. After several botched attempts, I scored the money shot of the Cisco Crossing, an arch of orange and the longest single-spanner on the Canadian National line. That deserved a celebratory drink. As we approached Lytton, rail traffic came to an abrupt halt for thirty minutes, due to a wildfire. They are notorious in these parts. Five years ago, the village of Lytton was incinerated by a fire.   

Curving past the Fraser River. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Before long, and after savouring another Rocky Gin Soda, we were skimming the Thompson River marvelling over the photogenic splendour of Rainbow Canyon. The minerals in the rocks reflect a rainbow of colours, giving the canyon a painted look. If you’re looking for churning water, the Thompson River has a very narrow and turbulent stretch, the Jaws of Death Gorge – beloved by white-water rafters. There is a wild, rugged even brutal beauty to the landscape in these parts. Snaking our way to Kamloops, one final spot offered a taster of the wildlife-spotting awaiting us the following day.  

The Osprey Nest is a massive roost, perched on top of the Wallachin Bridge, from where osprey will go searching for a feed of fish, soaring above the Thompson River.  After a wonderfully leisurely day riding the rails and hugging cliffsides as jade rivers rush below, the fragrant sagebrush and ponderosa pine forests fanned out across the Thompson Valley. It’s a semi-arid desert, where the mercury can hit 50C in summer and plunge to minus 40C in winter. And it’s home to Kamloops where we alighted from the train for a solid night’s hotel sleep ahead of our Rockies rendezvous the following day. I enjoyed some downtime strolling the Riverside Walk, reflecting on how this remarkable rail route stitched a nation together and to shake off ‘train legs.’ That phantom rocking motion is a weirdly real thing.  

Dreamy scenery aboard the train. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Where to stay? Prettily perched on a stretch of prime waterfront, Westin Bayshore has seen it all. First giving rise in the 1960s, the original building has been joined by the soaring condo tower of Bayshore Gardens. But despite its longevity, all areas of this swanky resort-style hotel exude a fresh, polished and feel-good vibe. The landmark circular pool is a dreamy spot to drink in the vistas of Stanley Park and Coal Harbour.  Definitely bag a harbour room, complete with balcony, for the expansive panorama, soaking up Vancouver’s natural splendour. The hotel hums with personality and warmth, from the chirpy door staff at the ready with umbrellas on a rainy day, to the crackling fire and inviting sofas in the colossal marble and honey-hued wood lobby. There’s numerous health and wellness touches to the hotel, from the on demand “Gear Lending” programme spanning Hyperice massage guns to Bala’s “Sculpt & Flow Kits”.  

There are water-yoga classes on floating mats, an indoor pool and whirlpool tub, plus that gorgeous circular heated outdoor pool with cedar barrel saunas, plus cruiser bikes on offer. Accommodations are light, bright and spacious with pops of ocean blue – but it’s those sensational views that keep seducing you. The bedside lavender balm is a lovely touch, and those Westin “Heavenly” beds live up to what it says on the tin. There’s a variety of dining venues on-site, but don’t miss H2 Kitchen + Bar, open from breakfast til late. It’s one of Vancouver's top spots for smokehouse faves, comfort food, live music, and local beer on tap. Plus, their crafted cocktails alone are well worth pulling up a seat.  

The Westin Bayshore in Vancouver. Photo / Destination Vancouver 

Flying daily between Auckland and Vancouver non-stop, travel in comfort with Air New Zealand on the well-timed overnight flights across the Pacific. Air New Zealand has rolled out even more comfort options in the economy cabin. I enjoyed a fully-stretched out sleep in Economy Skycouch, which has been a familiar feature on long-haul flights since 2010.  The row of seats transforms into a couch when the footrests are fully lifted. It’s a great-value option for solo travellers or families. Air New Zealand has also recently introduced Economy Stretch to the front of cabin, delivering up to 39% more legroom than a standard economy seat, plus you’ll be kitted out with premium headphones. Economy Stretch is just an additional $170 per person, per flight on the Vancouver route. For best fares and seats to suit, head to airnewzealand.co.nz.

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard each week on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.