Mike Yardley: Day-tripping from Vancouver

When you’ve had your fill of urban treats in downtown Vancouver, the call of the wild is hard to ignore. Blessed with a feast of day-tripping options, go explore!  Venturing over Vancouver’s Lions Gate Bridge is the gateway to the best of British Colombia’s outdoorsy delights, and a supporting cast of stellar encounters within easy reach of the city.  

Venturing north from the city centre, “North Van” is the gateway to all-things-outdoors. The Capilano Suspension Bridge is one of Canada’s oldest visitor attractions, which has wooed the world since the 1880s. 230 feet above the floor of the Capilano Canyon, the steel-cable supported bridge is slung high above the cedar-scented rainforest and the cascading waters deep below. Spanning 450 feet, traversing the majestic bridge feels like a floating-on-air experience. Yes, we’re not short of impressive swing bridges in New Zealand, but it’s the wider experience that makes Capilano so good.  

Capilano Bridge. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Recent additions to the nature reserve include a stunningly extensive tree tops walk that traverses the dense canopy of ancient firs and cedars, studded with art installations, along with the cliff walk which is steel-and-cable wrap around adventure, clinging to the canyon cliff face high above the canyon. Capilano showcases the stories of the area’s First Nation people in style, and the log-cabins offer local produce and tasty souvenirs, if you happen to enjoy maple-flavoured treats. Don’t miss the enthralling Raptors display as well, where various birds of prey are expertly handled and on show for the curious. The Great Horned Owl was my favourite, such a grand looking bird – its face a portrait of nobility, coupled with a two-metre wing span. These night hunters have soft-edged feathers that allow them to swoop in on their prey without even a whisper. 

Just 10 minutes north of Capilano is Vancouver’s signature peak, Grouse Mountain. Perched 4100 feet above greater Vancouver, the horizon-wide panorama is unbeatable. The all-new Blue Grouse Gondola is a multi-use, year-round transporter for ski-bunnies, hikers and sightseers alike. After alighting from the aerial ride, you have a wealth of activities at your disposal. In the cooler months, Grouse boasts 25 ski and snowboard runs, and an outdoor ice-skating rink to boot. Flood-lit night skiing is hugely popular with the after-work crowd. 

In the warmer months, the zip-line trails keep the speed-freaks satisfied, in addition to the alpine walking tracks, for the fit and intrepid. But even if you’re feeling lazy, head to Grouse for the grizzly bear refuge – which I adore. Between May and November, the bears won’t be hibernating and will be playing in public view. They napped for 144 days last winter. Grinder and Coola are the two resident grizzly bears, after being rescued by wildlife officers as cubs. They’re now 25 years old and they sure know how to play to the gallery. Cuteness alert – you may well find yourself whiling an afternoon utterly engrossed by these colossal balls of ferocious fluff. 

Grinder and Coola enjoying a spring dip. Photo / Grouse Mountain

Nestled beneath Grouse Mountain and the North Shore’s foothills, Lower Lonsdale is North Van’s trending neighbourhood, which was previously a hub of dockyards and warehouses. It was the centre of shipbuilding and their numerous nods to its history. Largely repurposed across 20 blocks, “Lolo” is now home to cafes, galleries, breweries and condos. But it’s the Shipyards District that is the most eye-catching, with its plazas, beer gardens, food trucks, markets and artisan treats. Get your fill at the Lonsdale Quay Market, where a fabulous food hall beckons with numerous local heroes, including infectiously good fudge at Olde World Confections and craft yoghurt ice-cream at Kraft Kulture. It’s easy to get to by SeaBus ferry from Vancouver. 

Beyond the city fringe, set aside a day to strike out on the Sea to Sky Highway, which whisks you all the way to Whistler. I joined LandSea Tours & Adventures who operate a superb return day-trip from Vancouver, with an insightful narration and ample time to do your thing. It’s a spell-blindingly picturesque drive, with engaging pit-stops all along the route. Soaring mountain ranges punctuate the terrain, flanking glinting Howe Sound, a glacial fiord that hugs much of the highway. The surrounding hillsides are the giveaway to its glacial pedigree, where the rock faces are all so incredibly grooved and smooth as a result of the glacial grinding. Only the very highest peaks, like those of the spire-like Tantalus Range, were left unmolested by the glacial movement, because they were too high. The breath-taking cliffside highway strings together a sweep of communities, starting with Horseshoe Bay and Lions Bay. Like the iconic bridge, Lions Bay takes its name from The Lions, a pair of mountain peaks in the vicinity.  

Crossing Lions Gate Bridge. Photo / Mike Yardley 

The section of highway above the homes of Lions Bay has a special rubber surfacing, to soften the noise pollution from the constant traffic flow. How very BC. We stopped at Porteau Cove, fiendishly popular with scuba divers, where scuttled shipwrecks and artificial reefs support hundreds of species of marine life. After passing through Britannia Beach, which previously boasted the British Empire’s biggest copper mine, Squamish is naturally sign-posted. A strikingly gigantic landmark shuffles into view, uncannily bearing a resemblance to the Rock of Gibraltar or El Capitan.  

This towering granite monolith, one of the world’s biggest, is the Stawamus Chief. Its vertiginous rock face dominates the view from the highway and I could just make out fearless rock-climbers ascending its 700 metre-high vertical wall, like intrepid ants on a high-stakes mission. No, I wasn’t inspired to follow their lead – but quite content to watch on. Right next door is a gorgeous forested scenic reserve, where the easy trails lead you to Shannon Falls. I spotted a peregrine falcon wheeling in the sky, en-route. They frequently nest here. If you could soar like a falcon, the Sea to Sky Country would resemble a geological mosaic of natural drama; from volcanic cones and expansive lava flows to sheets of ice and thundering waterfalls.  

LandSea Tours stop at Shannon Falls. Photo / Supplied 

Shannon Falls is theatrically magnificent, a gushing curtain of water plunging lustily, with a 300 metre drop. North of Squamish is Brackendale, home to one of the highest concentrations of wintering bald eagles in North America. If you’re visiting in early winter, you can ogle thousands of these majestic birds feasting on salmon carcasses from the main “Eagle Run” viewing facility, during the annual Salmon Run. If you’re extra-lucky, you might even spot beers plucking the fish from the riverbank.  This mass-spectacle of fish returning to their birthplace to die is so immense, that salmon DNA has even been detected in Brackendale’s trees. 

They certainly enjoy their gondolas in these parts, including the Sea to Sky Gondola in Squamish. It serves up panoramic views of Stawamus Chief and Shannon Falls, amid this spectacular slab of BC. But nothing compares to the high-wire extravaganza of Whistler’s Peak to Peak experience, an engineering tour de force, gently slinging wide-eyed passengers across the mountaintops, from Whistler to Blackcomb. It holds world records for the longest free span between ropeway towers, at 3.03 kilometres, and for boasting the highest point above the ground, at 436 metres.  

Peak to Peak Gondola. Photo / Destination Vancouver 

I was awestruck by the sprawling alpine panorama on the 4.4km-long ride, which also gives you access to endless miles of high altitude forest-and-flower trails and mountaintop dining. Keep an eye out for the black bears, roaming the mountainsides. I spotted three from the gondola. Whistler’s reputation as a world-class recreation mecca commands year-round pulling power, from the winter wonderland scenes, straight from a Christmas card, to the summer throng of bikers and hikers.  At this time of year, Whistler Bike Park is abuzz with thousands of bikers getting their thrills on the spell-binding network of lift-serviced trails, providing more terrain than any other bike park in North America. If you’re a newbie, or simply want to settle for a leisurely pedal, rather than a wild ride on the extreme circuits, the Valley Trail offers an easy 14km loop of pleasurable cycling through forest, meadow and lakeside vistas. No protective armour required!   

Where to stay in Vancouver? It is ultra-hip and seriously groovy, and offers great-value stays just off Granville St, in Vancouver. The Burrard transformed what was a 1950s’ downtown motel into a chic and playful boutique hotel with an unmistakably retro-cool vibe. Accommodations are compact but undeniably comfy, loaded with creature comforts and contemporary flourishes, including luxurious bedding, flatscreen TVs, free Wifi, charging stations and Nespresso coffee machines.  

Accommodation at the Burrard Vancouver. Photo / Supplied 

The 72 guestrooms open out onto a lush interior garden courtyard, thronging with palms. It’s a stunning little oasis for urban lounging, with a very sociable vibe. The staff are fabulously informed and fizzing at the bung with insider tips on where to go, whether it be a fun-filled bike route or post-pedal cocktail (top marks to Alex who was a font of inspiration on the front desk). It’s always a thrill to discover a stand-out hotel with a seriously distinctive personality. The Burrard is a star specimen.  

Flying daily between Auckland and Vancouver non-stop, travel in comfort with Air New Zealand on the well-timed overnight flights across the Pacific. Air New Zealand has rolled out even more comfort options in the economy cabin. I enjoyed a fully-stretched out sleep in Economy Skycouch, which has been a familiar feature on long-haul flights since 2010.  The row of seats transforms into a couch when the footrests are fully lifted. It’s a great-value option for solo travellers or families. Air New Zealand has also recently introduced Economy Stretch to the front of cabin, delivering up to 39% more legroom than a standard economy seat, plus you’ll be kitted out with premium headphones. Economy Stretch is just an additional $170 per person, per flight on the Vancouver route. For best fares and seats to suit, 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard each week on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.