Mike Yardley: Classic Big Apple bites in Greenwich

Mighty Manhattan is best savoured in bite-sized chunks, to really get a feel for the essence of its respective neighbourhoods and a sense of its soul. Greenwich Village is a star specimen for leisurely inspection, because it embodies so many classic elements of the Big Apple, steeped in so much history and foodie fabulousness. Reaching back to the early settlement era of New Amsterdam in the early 1600s, Greenwich takes its name from the Dutch term for “Green District”, because it was originally a pastoral riverside settlement, a patchwork of farms and orchards. By the 1790s, Greenwich transformed into an urban village, as a yellow fever epidemic drove many New Yorkers northward, from the tip of Manhattan.  

But unlike most of Manhattan, Greenwich was spared being carved up by the grid street pattern in the 1811 Commissioners’ Plan. To this day, the Village retains its original 18th century colonial pattern of angled roads, curving lanes and compact irregular streets, adding to its distinctive good looks. They’re constantly in use for film shoots. Within these eccentric bounds, the tree-lined blocks, historic rowhouses, and small squares evoke the pre-industrial city more vividly than anywhere else in Manhattan. Brownstones rub shoulders with boutiques in these atmospheric streets and what really struck me is that you might only be 100 metres away from the throb of 6th Ave or 7th Ave, but the blissful sense of calm in these age-old lanes feels like another world. Greenwich Village Historic District, designated in 1969, became one of the largest and most consequential preservation zones in the United States—ensuring that the neighbourhood’s evocative streetscape remains safeguarded. 

Washington Square Park is the neighbourhood’s social and symbolic heart, and just off the square, MacDougal Street offers a star-studded procession of time-honoured enticements and some seriously good eats. First up, Mamoun’s Falafel, a family-owned restaurant established 55 years ago, that’s not just the oldest falafel restaurant in New York, but one of the first ever Middle Eastern establishments in the United States. Mamoun was born in Syria and the family’s falafel sandwich is the stuff of legend. Fresh, crispy and spicy falafel stuffed in pita, with hummus, lettuce and tahini sauce.  

 Right next door, Cafe Reggio. Celebrating its centenary next year, this is old New York at its living best. The atmosphere is the real draw. It's beautiful, historic, and full of character as you sip on your cappuccino beneath Renaissance paintings. Café Reggio featured in The Godfather Part II and JFK even held a campaign rally here during his presidential campaign. But the café’s greatest claim to fame is that this is the place that served the first real Italian cappuccino in the United States, after importing the first espresso machine to American soil, nearly a century ago, for the then-princely sum of $1000.  

 MacDougall Street is also home to two celebrated cultural shrines, Café Wha, where the likes of Bob Dylan, Bruce Springsteen and Jimi Hendrix cut their teeth as live performers. Next door, the Comedy Cellar which enjoys similar cultural cachet, because this famous stand-up comedy club is where so many stars honed their talents, like Chris Rock, Jon Stewart, Dave Chappelle and Kevin Hart. They’re still both beloved venues that offer an intimate night of live entertainment. 

An unexpected find was sampling some fantastic fusion cuisine at a trending eatery called Taco Mahal. It’s what it says on the tin - traditional Indian curries served as tacos, with the tortilla switched out for roti. Generally you order up a serving of three tacos for about eight dollars. They offer a range of Indian curries, but the chicken tikka masala tacos are superb flavour bombs. The freshness and quality of the herbs and spices is top-notch – the best tasting tikka masala I have had, outside of India. 

For a deep scoop of history, stroll down to eighty six  Bedford Street, which is where this legendary 1920s Prohibition-era speakeasy, Chumleys, is located. Tragically, Covid killed it. The century old speakeasy went bust and it’s now a steakhouse. But it was probably New York’s most famous illicit speakeasy, run by the Italian mafia, and harboured authors like Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald who he showcased Chumleys in The Great Gatsby.  Just down the road, on Bedford and Grove, join the hordes and grab a selfie beneath the building that was cast as the Friends Apartment.  Go on – you know you want to.     

 I really like New York-style pizza. The crust is typically wide, thin, and intentionally floppy, so that you can fold it into a wallet, to encase the toppings and for easy on-the-go portability. A few locals said to me that the best way to know you are in a great pizza joint is to look for an in-store photo of Adam Sandler. He’s apparently New York’s most trusted pizza aficionado. I devoured a lot of slices all over town, but in Greenwich, John’s Pizzeria in Bleeker Street is quite the institution, nearly a century old, still family owned and still churning out their crispy pizzas from a coal fired brick oven.  

Just around the corner, for posher nosh, take a seat at Via Carota, a swanky Italian restaurant. Several years ago, Taylor Swift dined here and the restaurant got deluged with global bookings. Weirdly, the Swifties who booked were generally no-shows, but felt a connection with their idolised goddess by simply reserving a table at Via Carota! It forced the restaurant to revert to walk ups only – but they have now reopened a reservation service, too. Another classic stop is the Porto Rico Coffee Company, where enormous sacks of coffee beans and freshly ground coffee infuse the century-old store with all the aromatics of your caffeine dreams. 

Where to stay? The Benjamin Royal Sonesta New York is a midtown gem that is gearing up to celebrate its centenary next year. Built in 1927, The Benjamin Royal Sonesta Hotel began life as an apartment hotel, The Beverly, designed by the acclaimed architect Emery Roth. It opened up in what was then known as Hotel Alley, a sweep of properties purpose-built to serve Grand Central Station, including the Waldorf. 

The intricate beaux arts-style building was awarded landmark status a decade ago and the fabulous façade was immortalised in Georgia O’Keefe’s painting, New York, Night. If you really want to push the boat out, book The Benjamin’s Beverly Penthouse, which pays tribute to its past, with 975 square feet of splendour on the 18th floor. The hotel's mascot — a royal owl known as Oscar, the King of New York — appears throughout the property in artwork and furnishings. Gaze up at the keystones above the hotel’s arched façade, and you can still see Oscar still keeping watch today. 

A major $25m refresh was carried out at the hotel two years ago, modernising the guestrooms and public spaces, while faithfully leaving the building's historic bones intact. A regal canopy sets the stage on arrival at the hotel, where you’ll find yourself basking in a swish art deco-inspired lobby wrapped in dark wood, limestone, gold and black marble. Modern art in bold colours and plush banquettes all exude style and elegance. 

All rooms and suites are thoughtfully designed to feel residential, with wood-toned fixtures, marble bathrooms, hardwood floors, and light wall coverings. Definitely plump for a one-bedroom suite, which includes a spacious living room and private terrace. A huge standout about every room at the Benjamin is that they all feature a kitchenette complete with microwave, fridge, coffee maker and tableware. I felt like I was living local a local in the heart of New York. 

Another great touch is The Benjamin Royal Sonesta’s embrace of the wellness and relaxation with its Rest and Renew Sleep Program. Weighted blankets are available upon request, alongside a curated 10-choice pillow menu tailored to their sleep preferences. If you’re travelling with little ones, you can also request books, sleep masks, kid pillows, and a "mindfulness owl" night light and sound machine! You can book on-site spa services at the Royal Reflection Wellness Spa for extra pampering, while the hotel also has a fitness centre. 

For on-site dining from dawn to late, The Parliament is a go-to for classic and modern American fare, in a beautifully designed bistro space, with its dark woods, stone, and brass accents.  It’s also an atmospheric spot for a cheeky nightcap. I highly recommend their signature cocktail, a “Diplomat Manhattan”, with bourbon, vermouth, orange and Angostura bitters. The gracious, outgoing and convivial staff are the cherry on top of this landmark stay. nyc.sonesta.com.

Flying three times weekly between Auckland and New York City non-stop, travel in comfort with Air New Zealand on the well-timed overnight flights across the Pacific. Powered by Boeing 787-9 Dreamliners, the airline is completing the retrofit programme to its Dreamliners, offering fresh comfort and space across the cabins. Stretch out with Economy Skycouch or upgrade to Premium Economy or Business Premier for the ultimate in-flight experience. Economy Skynest - the world's first sleep pods in the sky - is now open for bookings on select ultra long-haul flights between Auckland and New York, for travel from late December 2026. For best fares and seats to suit, airnewzealand.co.nz 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard each week on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.